tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80108578364286284272024-03-19T05:31:24.430-07:00OLE BLUEGetting to know a 1966 Ford F-250 Camper SpecialJohn Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.comBlogger53125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-13329533360487127272020-09-27T11:45:00.014-07:002020-09-29T19:20:36.344-07:00Re-Assembling the Steering Column <p>Little did I know what awaited me as I reassembled the column (I was thinking because I had dropped a shift collar flange screw (yes - Ford part #3461 the square headed one) down into the column between the auto shift sleeve and the outer sleeve -- I would have to remove the complete column assembly to retrieve it). I found that by taping a rare earth magnet (o'reilly's $4) to a straightened wire hanger I could slip the magnet down between the column shaft sleeves and pulled out my flange bolt. My first block was eliminated. </p><div>\Next, after dealing with all the wiring and placement of the new turn signal switch into the signal flange collar I was stumped by how the flange bolts actually worked - what did they do? They seemed to just sit in the signal flange and after tightening when I tried to marry the signal flange to the shift collar there was about a 1/8" gap between the two and no way to connect them. Spent a few minutes looking at pictures I took during the tear down and at the various sleeves in the column before I realized the heads of the flange bolts need to sit in top and lower slots of the outer column sleeve. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiep3Aa7DnxBwnxyBNovxMFUV6aQtkw3jwB2WmBlj3ziw6kalf3GBfu4Wi2r7pelXkj2YN5b8qy4hIEQ5kmERZLmZp4RYKwJQhibpFD0-nDTUNDfY3zyKe38RtE46cE6KDOj3XiCmeU4dU/s2016/slots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiep3Aa7DnxBwnxyBNovxMFUV6aQtkw3jwB2WmBlj3ziw6kalf3GBfu4Wi2r7pelXkj2YN5b8qy4hIEQ5kmERZLmZp4RYKwJQhibpFD0-nDTUNDfY3zyKe38RtE46cE6KDOj3XiCmeU4dU/s320/slots.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slots on Top & Bottom of column<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>Now, how to get them mounted. I spent a few days searching before I found someone that had the same question with a '65 falcon and they had two recommendations - mount flange bolt loosely into signal flange and wiggle signal flange onto column sleeve until flange bolt heads find slots then tighten - OR - tape bolts into slots and then slip signal flange onto bolts and tighten.</div><div><br /></div><div>I loosely set the bolts and nuts in the signal flange, slipped it over the column and jiggled until the heads of the bolts slipped into the slots on the column - was NOT difficult! However, then the next challenge as I tightened everything down and slipped the steering wheel into place - no matter how much I tightened the main nut on the wheel, the wheel and steering rod were very loose, not like they had been before. </div><div><br /></div><div>I spent the next 2 days taking apart and rebuilding the steering column, shift collar, signal collar and searching everywhere on the web for hints at what was wrong - most mustang, falcon and truck owners over the past few decades all pointed to a missing spring between the top bearing sleeve and the steering wheel as the culprit - but I didn't have a spring except for the horn spring in the pieces I had removed - I even went back through all the pictures I had taken but did not see the spring everyone was saying should fix my problem. </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9lm7wFbjmrZ6atJAdB0WKmKxCjehxwGGSGpewOPhn7RvGVsgox_99aFYFsJ4OEup-lRxoQ__DJV_QWfgcKqwLgN0PreeVsL8DJfVnWsE4BeTRgT2kq53BBut-sA6YKBdtArGMbwSYfDc/s2048/Missing+Spring.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1447" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9lm7wFbjmrZ6atJAdB0WKmKxCjehxwGGSGpewOPhn7RvGVsgox_99aFYFsJ4OEup-lRxoQ__DJV_QWfgcKqwLgN0PreeVsL8DJfVnWsE4BeTRgT2kq53BBut-sA6YKBdtArGMbwSYfDc/w283-h400/Missing+Spring.jpg" width="283" /></a></div>Seems I am missing Ford Part Number 3520 from the parts catalog blow out view of the steering column. Hmmm ... <div><br /></div><div>I looked around but couldn't find a spring anywhere until I climbed over the tools and packages sitting on the bench seat and looked down on the floor by the passenger door - there, laying against door was my spring - it had rolled off the seat sometime over the last 4 days and now I slipped it over the steering rod and mounted the steering wheel - WOW! Wheel was smooth, tight, my turn signals worked left and right, and most important for me, PARK actually stayed in PARK. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc1s_bur_njqAtkJFC1FNBL2QKUkOdTKAq1Q-LeIodR71-N-Axyo9IdzyJ_CjfyoovBlMrtq4wnOZtnEV90O2BlhNiVX1iJnXtV0uPtnIW8UECRDeMtk_ybZEwcATUrMPUIOx9ZCquS2c/s2016/image43.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc1s_bur_njqAtkJFC1FNBL2QKUkOdTKAq1Q-LeIodR71-N-Axyo9IdzyJ_CjfyoovBlMrtq4wnOZtnEV90O2BlhNiVX1iJnXtV0uPtnIW8UECRDeMtk_ybZEwcATUrMPUIOx9ZCquS2c/s320/image43.jpeg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All the pieces are required ))<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>I connected the battery and .... the horn starting blasting ))) Uh ohh, something wasn't right, I took another look at the plugs and wiring coming from the steering column but nothing looked incorrect. I connected and re-connected all 7 wires from the connectors and reseated each, verifying the cables were in the correct position, when I touched the cable to the battery the horn blared. </div><div><br /></div><div>I compared starting pictures with what I had built, I reviewed threads on FTE about rewiring the column - there was no easy answer here so ... I pulled the horn ring ... and then the steering wheel ... I connected the battery and it beeped - I knew something was shorted somewhere, so I disconnected the turn signal switch ... still beeping ... pulled the turn signal switch up off the steering rod ... touched the battery cable to the battery and ... silence ... hmmmm, I remembered what a teacher had told me years ago - the last thing changed before it broke is what broke it - so I took a close look at the wires on the back side of the turn signal switch, compared what I saw to the broken, original switch and saw that the horn wire wasn't mounted on the new third party the same way that the OEM part had. I unbent the wire where it was connected to the switch and made sure the wire routed up over the switch and down the column. I touched the battry cable tot he post and ... no beeps! </div><div><br /></div><div>I quickly reassembled the steering wheel and horn ring, cabled the battery and ... no beeps until I pressed the horn ring - it was working. I fired up the truck and tested the left and right turn signals ... worked great. </div><div><br /></div><div>After 8 years of running this old truck without PARK (blocking wheels whenever I parked, using parking brake religiously, etc.) I feel a little spoiled knowing that when I slipped Ole Blue into Park she ain't gonna move until I am sitting in the drivers seat again. <br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div>John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-27721282353960990882020-09-22T11:49:00.026-07:002020-11-28T22:15:15.177-08:00How to Drive a Ford Cruise-O-Matic Transmission in Town <div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicOc4MNGehA5s9UqqRuegHKE0LX_m9HoZlU1QV73f9Fg0iVTSmGCxCX-VyvPpqEvjRnARqZyRrlZ_ALpjTU_JfKnD45IJ-7s9C2TqRHzND5CLzSzqwze09it9D90k2xgI5ydp8ctg-Lo/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="732" height="409" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiicOc4MNGehA5s9UqqRuegHKE0LX_m9HoZlU1QV73f9Fg0iVTSmGCxCX-VyvPpqEvjRnARqZyRrlZ_ALpjTU_JfKnD45IJ-7s9C2TqRHzND5CLzSzqwze09it9D90k2xgI5ydp8ctg-Lo/w434-h409/image.png" width="434" /></a></div><br /><br /></div>The Cruise-O-Matic arrived in 1958 and offered 3 Drive positions, one marked with a green dot. The new automatic still featured a Low position, but a sprag allowed the transmission to shift automatically from low to second to third when in the green dot position. The white dot started in 2 gear and went to 3rd only. This green dot gear pattern remained until 1967, when Ford replaced it with the now-common 1-2-D pattern for three-speeds. <div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Y4G-Zmr9DsvI_OztB_n7HRo0Mc-yS_vou83bLA6T_jTupbNcKFzD5VCiIPEBaIxFc5Y9plX-GqQ4lkVzkndRVQGdpTknQAXPaZse15PVADUYjzcsLv6-GcOXVHPtzOdTN8B9hxk-6rs/s1004/OleBlue.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="1004" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Y4G-Zmr9DsvI_OztB_n7HRo0Mc-yS_vou83bLA6T_jTupbNcKFzD5VCiIPEBaIxFc5Y9plX-GqQ4lkVzkndRVQGdpTknQAXPaZse15PVADUYjzcsLv6-GcOXVHPtzOdTN8B9hxk-6rs/w459-h287/OleBlue.png" width="459" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Frankly, weekend runs down the boulevard using white dot is comfy, responsive (with the 352) and there ain't a day goes by somebody doesn't give me the thumbs up ))</div><div> <br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMz2ZiuaTc9NJkSUq-TZpobeRY8lhJjET3W5b-CAKWZ5Hxibt15dDlOVqdXzsn1AH2m1ofmgtyefDGapVN2ycWKR24tHn4N6CYMniuqn_uRQQLSPLJQjJTqsMHW-8HVRTjdEdl2dur0J8/s2016/image6.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMz2ZiuaTc9NJkSUq-TZpobeRY8lhJjET3W5b-CAKWZ5Hxibt15dDlOVqdXzsn1AH2m1ofmgtyefDGapVN2ycWKR24tHn4N6CYMniuqn_uRQQLSPLJQjJTqsMHW-8HVRTjdEdl2dur0J8/s320/image6.jpeg" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5dZ0bbGB5iJ-A0K1kLOQpZJrnosxQXRZ1r6V19K_RwzSKFkKbsnblYf8IdaToGsP51szepA9_zHHsvRYTagqnqd4dtV7v3G6OeV-r9P_cnCrnjli3HhTbekSeiuUYry1VZi1uqM5vseg/s1979/image0.0.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1181" data-original-width="1979" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5dZ0bbGB5iJ-A0K1kLOQpZJrnosxQXRZ1r6V19K_RwzSKFkKbsnblYf8IdaToGsP51szepA9_zHHsvRYTagqnqd4dtV7v3G6OeV-r9P_cnCrnjli3HhTbekSeiuUYry1VZi1uqM5vseg/w400-h239/image0.0.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>From the original 1966 F-250 Camper Special Operators Manual we learn what the crazy dots and L mean when driving the 3 speed Cruise-O-Matic transmission. </p><p>I think the cruise-o-matic (or COM) is a little quirky and a little special - I know nothing of the mechanics but from a drivers view, skipping first gear on a truck geared like this factory standard Spicer/Dana 60 Rear Axle (<span face="Helvetica, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-size: 13.3333px;">4.10-1 / No Limited Slip with 5,200 lbs. Rear Axle) </span>made off farm driving a piece of cake. I don't get ice or snow but I find the 2-3 softens the jolts when driving in town and out on the two lane roads in the surrounding low hills. Downside is there is no way to hold the transmission in 2nd gear. On all forward options 2nd gear shifts up. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGAg6j55-qJiHvzD3mZuvUhsA5-ELL6jMyK_wpJqU6Z6gPOCzhnDfrP18tyjyMZt_moKWsrxvRUCYn2lVyqP6lca9MdJXnIKGTp7LO5FBN4zu-ONn0CicLr6RHTwhAYVNQ3C4JwpTJ11U/s1930/image0.1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="874" data-original-width="1930" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGAg6j55-qJiHvzD3mZuvUhsA5-ELL6jMyK_wpJqU6Z6gPOCzhnDfrP18tyjyMZt_moKWsrxvRUCYn2lVyqP6lca9MdJXnIKGTp7LO5FBN4zu-ONn0CicLr6RHTwhAYVNQ3C4JwpTJ11U/w501-h227/image0.1.jpg" width="501" /></a></div><br /><p>I never could resolve the differences in the drive markings of the picture on page 1 and the text. So, I drove it to learn the green dot on my shift indicator shifts 1-2-3, the little white dot under the word Drive started in 2nd and went to 3rd when pushed. L was 1st gear only. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhey1MyUjJqADs8BRh1oliq1_g3O2j5KDzEAm_fcJjGVJuERC-zdBBENM6vkwfuTJSOxTnmpoYRi5-g1Qnssqbq31qb6LhTbFDJrJCy-Jo_n1t7EhDdB24A72iGrAP_5aekBxPefKlOGBI/s1723/image0.2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1723" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhey1MyUjJqADs8BRh1oliq1_g3O2j5KDzEAm_fcJjGVJuERC-zdBBENM6vkwfuTJSOxTnmpoYRi5-g1Qnssqbq31qb6LhTbFDJrJCy-Jo_n1t7EhDdB24A72iGrAP_5aekBxPefKlOGBI/w478-h215/image0.2.jpg" width="478" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p>Best of luck with this ... </p></div></div>John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-20859046344677125182020-09-21T09:19:00.007-07:002020-09-27T11:42:32.315-07:00Replace the Automatic Transmission Shift Lever<p>Because the shift lever tab that holds the lever in Park was snapped off over the years (even resulting in replacing the drivers side door when Ole Blue took off across the yard while tuning and side swiping another parked car) we found an New-Old Stock (NOS) OEM shift lever on Ebay and want to swap in the new shift lever. <br /><br />Ebay is our friend today - WooHoo (nice Price!!!) </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiboHu-l-ipwJJ3c5PAFztYR72HMDKfh1F7pW-11HsQiD8Arj3T1S6qUAWpVSZH5ondo7zvyoDINcTsdPGMTpx1Mox0JfnvIjLUgT3kxq1Z8ZP0IomOXNoNyOIyZEYpBJopBiePyOGvQiI/s582/EBay+List.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="578" data-original-width="582" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiboHu-l-ipwJJ3c5PAFztYR72HMDKfh1F7pW-11HsQiD8Arj3T1S6qUAWpVSZH5ondo7zvyoDINcTsdPGMTpx1Mox0JfnvIjLUgT3kxq1Z8ZP0IomOXNoNyOIyZEYpBJopBiePyOGvQiI/w400-h398/EBay+List.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQfXtb87CSJ_EWbTy_i9WcpZXmS34qEN4rS8pALYdRRniehiFgjDkxKTE4UslAMkR5-BlonPAzDT4J7F7644jzVnQ5wkQTtlqOky2Fl1g2DNYj55suM-JDol-hJ-eokWKhHiDYCIHjWnk/s1600/s-l1600.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQfXtb87CSJ_EWbTy_i9WcpZXmS34qEN4rS8pALYdRRniehiFgjDkxKTE4UslAMkR5-BlonPAzDT4J7F7644jzVnQ5wkQTtlqOky2Fl1g2DNYj55suM-JDol-hJ-eokWKhHiDYCIHjWnk/w320-h213/s-l1600.jpg" title="C5TZ-7210-A" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Its a black one, not tan but will work with Ole Blues Interior </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8Svvj0acF7lJVcWS1wPGMGXce5xKkGNiY8_DIiGUDz4YQI2zSV_2FZ7Li28W2nxgTv3n4d_xmuH6xCKR31K9kxR6hY90Dm6BiV29IES6ecYuP_FVAVD9pgJmRPqcRZiPTQdS6ELOHbo/s1600/s-l1600-3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv8Svvj0acF7lJVcWS1wPGMGXce5xKkGNiY8_DIiGUDz4YQI2zSV_2FZ7Li28W2nxgTv3n4d_xmuH6xCKR31K9kxR6hY90Dm6BiV29IES6ecYuP_FVAVD9pgJmRPqcRZiPTQdS6ELOHbo/s320/s-l1600-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><h3 style="text-align: left;">Install</h3>First - we looked around and found the following guidance: <br /><br />"... Use a punch and hammer to drive the pin from the bottom up. Probably easiest if you select reverse or second gear. Once you drive the pin out, you'll be holding the lever in your hand. " <a href="https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/915143-1966-ford-gear-shift-lever-removal-question.html">https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/915143-1966-ford-gear-shift-lever-removal-question.html</a><br /><br />OK this seems straight forward... but it took 3 days of very careful placement of the punch (I did not want to mess up the original paint on the shift collar) to figure out how hard I had to hit the pin to push it up. You have to smack it fairly crisply and solidly to get it to move, with shift collar firmly placed on stack of newspapers of something else that will keep paint from chipping off of pressure points. <div><br /></div><div>Once the pin was out the new shift lever slipped into the shift collar with a little wrangling with the spring loaded pin that MUST be under the shift lever. By turning the shift lever just enough and sliding it into the shift collar while pressing it against the engine side pressur epin the shift lever slipped into place. I inserted the pin from the top down into the collar and lever and viola! New lever for ole blue! </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div> </div><div><br /></div><div> </div><div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /> <p></p></div></div>John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-57183976087171301792020-09-16T13:21:00.015-07:002020-09-24T08:00:22.951-07:00Yuuup - its the old Park to Reverse issue common on F250's with a Cruise O Matic<span style="font-family: arial;">When Ole Blue is sitting in Park, it frequently will slip into reverse. Happens when starting, when sitting at a stop light, when idling in the garage during a tune up. When Uncle Ken was having Ole Blue worked on in the 90's the mechanic wasn't aware of the issue and actually tore off the driver side door when he left the door open while working up front and the transmission slipped into reverse, idled across the yard (in reverse) and hit a tree or something bending the drivers door towards the front of the truck -- AAACCCKKK. (They found a replacement door and painted it to match Ole Blue's Marlin/Wimbledon colors - it still doesn't fit very well - maybe was off a '64 or something). <br /><br />Anyway, I was reading threads on the FTE forum the other day and saw where Bill the retired Ford Parts Manager responded to a reader with the following info: <br /><br />"What you're referring to...is not a defect, it's caused by human error. It's a somewhat common occurrence that affects all 1961/96 trucks with A/T.<br /><br /></span><div><span style="font-family: arial;">People put the shift lever into Park before setting the hand brake, causing the truck to roll...just enough...that the parking pawl inside the trans locks up tight.<br /><br />Now the shift lever has to be YANKED out of Park and before too long, the detent aka shift gate that the tab on the shift lever locks into between Park & Reverse...snaps off.<br /><br />C5TZ-7A216-A ... Detent-bolts to bottom of upper steering column flange ~ 1965/66 F100/250 240/300 C4 & 352 MX C-O-M / Obsolete<br /><br />No Ford Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any. "</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: arial;"></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoZ2e7k6jzy_zd6eOXhysy1GRJesYzin6ErgYGSVhTckgPNlHG_5N14VeTtS-NIm2iD63CiMaP7S0oitS-r1bOQhgcqwn5PEQE5DSoAIPbeoa58aGMvMAhSlrusBbT5K9rG_fIqq9lSIo/s2016/image0.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoZ2e7k6jzy_zd6eOXhysy1GRJesYzin6ErgYGSVhTckgPNlHG_5N14VeTtS-NIm2iD63CiMaP7S0oitS-r1bOQhgcqwn5PEQE5DSoAIPbeoa58aGMvMAhSlrusBbT5K9rG_fIqq9lSIo/w300-h400/image0.jpeg" title="Steering wheel removed" width="300" /></a></div><br /><br /><span style="font-family: arial;"><br />I will try to find and replace this piece while swapping out the turn signal switch .... <br /><br />Uh Ohhhhhhh</span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">C5TZ-7A216-A Is not available, however, we found this thread on FTE: </span></div><div><a href="https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1091088-update-on-auto-shift-detent-my-repair-worked-too.html">https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1091088-update-on-auto-shift-detent-my-repair-worked-too.html</a> </div><div>(Use a detent off a /73 bronco) </div><div><br /></div><div>Another story: </div><div><a href="https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1316668-shift-detent.html">https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1316668-shift-detent.html</a> </div><div>(Make sure the detent is the issue - this guys root cause was his shift lever) </div><div><br /></div><div>I took off the steering wheel and immediately saw that the 2 'ears' were broken off the turn signal switch - ordered that up from one of the current replacement parts stores. Following the advice of users at the FTE forums I ordered the complete part with wires, as all recommendations say replace the complete switch NOT just try to replace the white plastic thing as this almost never really fixes the problem of turn signals not working correctly. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu8cK7dM16ggi79f8CjGraBwf1BqjW_IVb0HYkmeao_tzYYe5WxCzm14PSUXm35meMMZrwhWw3Vp4NYTc7S_oFQGvBr5Pr6h3NhmmRGy8cNvsUyVVpH19cbkMD9r-5zt1VU3TT8s7t60Q/s2016/image1.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu8cK7dM16ggi79f8CjGraBwf1BqjW_IVb0HYkmeao_tzYYe5WxCzm14PSUXm35meMMZrwhWw3Vp4NYTc7S_oFQGvBr5Pr6h3NhmmRGy8cNvsUyVVpH19cbkMD9r-5zt1VU3TT8s7t60Q/s320/image1.jpeg" /></a></div><br /><div>Decided to take a look at the detent while prepping for new turn signal switch, I unscrewed the three retaining screws and pulled back the turn signal switch, then removed the two center shifter retaining nuts and lifted out the shift mechanism. Turning over the shift mechanism, the detent looked great - no cracks or deformities. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6DXvoObzABvjGhRNKKtMdR1GmBC5J0lzKTAUhmN8nA_gkPDGVwEh_aad5Cvv3CQwNNQTWaSLmc4bk6DVsjX4GHSJYjHCzMATsI1AXRfzzZ9mwLjTX_78CV2G-CpRllQra0zBS6Mq1ho/s2016/image5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL6DXvoObzABvjGhRNKKtMdR1GmBC5J0lzKTAUhmN8nA_gkPDGVwEh_aad5Cvv3CQwNNQTWaSLmc4bk6DVsjX4GHSJYjHCzMATsI1AXRfzzZ9mwLjTX_78CV2G-CpRllQra0zBS6Mq1ho/s320/image5.jpeg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Taking a closer look at the Shift lever, the end looked a little different then what was shared on the FTE forums. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeF2oifLDjNTcW-W2o1VegqV_G0yoshpnYC3evMuuJBrOZb23-Kxr2byaq026XHiFUT8bp6FGWCZM8CTMkZDdycERihNDKlEbRf_tt8qsnf9nF-slWN7LYL-0q3PPHLTdet-ax-NJ1doE/s2016/image2.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeF2oifLDjNTcW-W2o1VegqV_G0yoshpnYC3evMuuJBrOZb23-Kxr2byaq026XHiFUT8bp6FGWCZM8CTMkZDdycERihNDKlEbRf_tt8qsnf9nF-slWN7LYL-0q3PPHLTdet-ax-NJ1doE/s320/image2.jpeg" /></a></div><br /><div>I saw a little piece of steel laying next to the end of the shift lever (see 1 below) and a rough edged on the end of the shift lever - the tab had broken off !! (see 2 below) </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB000_w6d0L6T4kPnOTu5cyszrNXz0yTRJaXkOrRnJzAYh-TriVmzRLZ9iB2g64cSjv4izV-gA5qCDg7f0_GjsJC-u7o5AhGzh_VWVUK6RrNIH6kUb9kMlUl0lyZ87UtVXuWqXtctV6m4/s2016/image2a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB000_w6d0L6T4kPnOTu5cyszrNXz0yTRJaXkOrRnJzAYh-TriVmzRLZ9iB2g64cSjv4izV-gA5qCDg7f0_GjsJC-u7o5AhGzh_VWVUK6RrNIH6kUb9kMlUl0lyZ87UtVXuWqXtctV6m4/w480-h640/image2a.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>ROOT CAUSE OF OLE BLUE shifting into reverse was NOT the detent at all - it was a broken lock tab on the shift lever! </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-70211723540584553832020-09-16T12:36:00.006-07:002020-09-23T11:02:33.048-07:00Time to fix the Turn Signal<span style="font-family: arial;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkTxNqdVPwWCm9Ca-EgarHJ3ZvN5Ojo1BhQ_ict263l2Yv9z6DnYsy2SqVgs46cI2rsILwSQAQFk1juSoQtfP5PtGUFszxrcC6izrf2-2YoRTHuDUpzTgVlURZAgJ1phAv4LCMym4WGq4/s2016/image.0.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkTxNqdVPwWCm9Ca-EgarHJ3ZvN5Ojo1BhQ_ict263l2Yv9z6DnYsy2SqVgs46cI2rsILwSQAQFk1juSoQtfP5PtGUFszxrcC6izrf2-2YoRTHuDUpzTgVlURZAgJ1phAv4LCMym4WGq4/s320/image.0.jpeg" /></a></div><br />The turn signal on Ole Blue hasn't worked right since we started driving this truck 7 years ago. We can indicate the direction we are turning but regardless of direction we flip the switch it never returns back to OFF position after the turn. </span><div><span style="font-family: arial;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: arial;">Working with my son on his 1966 Mustang he has a similar problem when he turns left, he pulled the steering wheel and found a broken return cam and found a replacement switch online so I decided to do the same. <br /><br />First stop is a quick search on FTE forums to see what lessons I can take away from others efforts and bottom line is the key recommendation is NOT to try and replace the cam, just replace the whole switch. "Autoparts store replacement cams never fit or work worth a damn."<br /><br />C9TZ-13341-C ...T/S Switch / Available from Ford. is what Bill the retired Ford Parts Manager says but when I looked online at our local Ford dealership they said this part has been discontinued. (Maybe since the original post from Bill was dated 2006, this has happened in the past 14 years!!). Have to find another source. <br /><br />Bill also said to follow the method the ford techs used: </span><div><span style="font-family: arial;">1) Cut the wires off about 1 1/2" above the connector, leaving enough so the color of each can be determined.<br /><br />2) Tape the wires together, and tie a long piece of string to them.<br /><br />3) Pull the switch from the column, tape the new wires together, tie the string to them.<br /><br />4) Pull the string from the bottom of the column, the wires will feed down without binding up. Match the new wire colors to the cut-off pieces remaining in the connector.<br /><br />"In the 1960's, there was an ancient Ford tech at the dealer I worked at, who could R&R a TSS in 10 minutes or less using this method....including R&R'ing the wheel." - Bill <br /><br />Thanks BILL! </span><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div></div>John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-43317343242612027592019-01-26T23:52:00.000-08:002019-06-09T09:59:23.571-07:00Exhaust Leak <br />
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We had been told there was an exhaust leak on the drivers side when we lived at Casa but had no idea what this meant. Yesterday, while checking the timing, Will saw flames between the exhaust pipe and the headers when we rev'd the engine. With a can of WD40 and a pneumatic wrench he tightened up the rusted header bolts and suddenly we knew what an exhaust leak sounded like, and what a glass-pak'ed 352 FE sounds like -<br />
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This is AFTER ..... <br />
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The drum brakes on this survivor tend to grab ;)John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-65728107919542271932018-09-02T00:11:00.003-07:002019-01-12T14:27:05.485-08:00F* the Stuck Bolt or Thank god there are still guys who do this "Anytime you want to pull a bolt, you gotta hit it 3 times with a hammer and let her know this is the bolt you want." This guiding encouragement given to me by Uncle Ken when chatting about the 1966 F250 seems so simple now. For the last 5 years whenever I needed a bolt I tap, tap, tap and out it comes. Water pump, seat frame, back bumper slider all gave it up but the last few months we have been fighting with the alternator and that long 4" bottom bolt into the engine block.<br />
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We tried dousing with WD40 and let sit for a day (you know this stuff was invented to protect missiles and the name stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try)</div>
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Ritual tap tap tap and ... nothing </div>
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Used our tire iron substitute break stick ... stripped head of bolt</div>
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(used stripped head puller socket for remaining efforts)</div>
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Bought impact wrench rated at 700 ft/lbs and ... nothing </div>
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Talk with hardcore mechanic about it ... he was amused. </div>
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We got an appointment for next Friday ...<br />
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John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-5635970939471055682017-02-04T12:05:00.002-08:002020-09-21T09:25:53.383-07:00Tune Up Time It has been a few thousand miles and I have noticed that Ole Blue has been coughing a little when I accelerate out of turns on the country roads heading to the beach. I think I need to take another look at the carburetor. So, this morning 'Choke Boy' and I took a drive down the highway a couple of miles and then, with a warm engine, went to work by hooking up the vacuum gauge and timing light.<br />
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My plan was to:<br />
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<ol>
<li>Note the idle vacuum reading. Normal vacuum at idle should be 19-21 inches for a six cylinder, or 15-18 inches on a low compression engine. </li>
<li>Check the ignition timing, before making any carb adjustments.</li>
<li>Lean out the mixture screws (turn in). </li>
<li>After each adjustment is made, reset the idle speed.</li>
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I had also picked up a tachometer / dwell meter at goodwill for $1 and I hooked it up as well. The tachometer was reading 800 rpm, the vacuum was at 19 inches and the timing was a bit advanced of my white mark from last year, so I released the lock down bolt and reset the timing to 10 degrees BTDC.<br />
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I checked the idle mixture screws. Turning each screw about 1/2 turn in, I was thinking I needed to lean out the carb a little to reduce the coughing. The vacuum was still reading 19 inches so I turned it 1/4 turn more and rechecked the idle speed, setting it at 700.<br />
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I cranked down on the distributor hold down bolt, disconnected the meters and took her for a test drive, Choke Boy riding shotgun. She pulled away smooth from full stops and as we headed out of town on the little two lane road west we easily cruised at 55 out to the turns in the road as it meanders through the low hills. Entering the first turn I let up on the accelerator and when I pushed down to accelerate out of the turn Old Blue jumped without any hesitation, pulling us through the corner, accelerating into the straights. Yeah, Baby let's drive this a while and see how it feels!<br />
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John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-67488818190474722822015-02-28T14:39:00.000-08:002015-03-28T07:40:17.364-07:00Installing the Anti-Rattlers and Windows INSTALLATION<br />
1. Form the door glass run to the window glass, recommend holding down the door glass run on top of glass by one person, while the other person molds the door glass run over the curvature of the glass.<br />
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NOTE: Much has been written about the metal edges kinking and bending when the curve is put into the window run. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If ends don't slide out, the bend will kink!</td></tr>
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After looking carefully at the original run and watching as I bent the new run over the window curve I noticed the two metal edges of the run need to slip out through the top end of the run as the curve is formed. Watch the end of the run carefully as the bend is being made and help the ends move out if they get hung up. This will ensure a smooth bend in the run and will create the little metal ends poking out the top of the run that is often found on the original window run from 1966,<br />
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2.Slip in the division Bar: Install it at about a 45-degree angle; turned 180 degrees opposite the way it mounts. We slipped the shipping plastic back over the top to minimize scratching the new paint. we loosely connected the top screws and left it hanging. .</div>
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3. Door Glass: With the door glass run bent; install the door glass through the door access panel and lean against inside of door.<br />
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4. Regulator Mechanism: we attached it loosely with the four screws around the window crank stud.<br />
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5. Vent Window: At this point the door glass, regulator & division bar are inside the door panel; with the door glass and division bar laying down in the bottom of the door panel. Insert a nylon rope / string under the <i>outside </i>of the rubber vent window seal; leaving a large portion expose at both ends to grasp when pulling the rubber seal lip over the door frame.<br />
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We installed the vent window using two screws along the A post and tighten them about 3/4 of the way. (Ensure the nylon cord is on the outside of the door frame prior to this point). Go ahead and slowly pull the cord to over lap the rubber seal against the outside door frame.<br />
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6. Division Bar: Slide division bar into place; making sure the bottom attachment plate is over the top of the regulator mechanism and bolt to the inside two bolts securing the bar to the regulator. Also screw the top two screws (through the door frame) loosely into place. Ensure the vent window screw; that's inserted through the horizontal portion of the vent rubber near the vent window handle is screwed into the division bar at this time.<br />
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7. Door Glass Run: With the now formed window run, install run through the top of door, guide door run along the inside channel guide along the door handle side. Reach up through the access panel to guide the dove tail clip into the groove at the top of the metal channel that the door glass run slides into. This channel bar is vertical along the door handle side, bolted through the door panel near the door locking mechanism.<br />
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* Use a 3/8" thick wood stick to snap run into alignment holes; don't put pressure into curvature portion only along the top three snap holes and two side snap holes of the trim portions.<br />
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8. Door Glass: Lift door glass from bottom of door panel along division bar & door glass run trim. Once align with regulator arm attach with cam roller & clip, (I use new plastic cam roller but found that my original (E clip or Jesus clip) attach cam roller better than my new made in Taiwan clip).<br />
Crank glass up about 1/3rd of the way out; have a person hold squarely the glass for proper alignment while another person tightens division bar bolts and screws; we also tighten the vent window screws securely at this time.<br />
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9. Anti-Rattlers: Anti- rattlers are the last item to install and can be snapped into place with your finger and with the thinner portion of the wood shim we use. There are real thin metal pieces on the ends of the Anti-rattlers; we place the ends along the outside of the division bar and door glass run.<br />
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After this step just reattach your door trim, armrest, handles and access panel. The DC illustration really helped and we recommend due to having pictures for each step; the main difference between them and us was when we installed the vent window. The write-up by Mitch 'Customcab' on the Ford Truck Enthusiast site (<a href="http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/447502-installation-of-door-windows-parts.html">http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/447502-installation-of-door-windows-parts.html</a>) was also very helpful.<br />
<br />John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-36519796910357525902015-02-17T13:36:00.000-08:002015-03-28T08:00:47.231-07:00Replacing the Vent Window Seal <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vent Window</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZp-wvLDYOFm0V0yt1xz0RhtH7K8RKzkQba6wPiOHPIkPy_CcK4FZWicyVPFQHmyngAVP0Vn4g-1TS7oROICC2L4AGESwmNyzhRpcPHp-nXmN_FZj8ffF4q77EL0sqRVKNeJKD6lkdcXY/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Broken+Right+Door+037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZp-wvLDYOFm0V0yt1xz0RhtH7K8RKzkQba6wPiOHPIkPy_CcK4FZWicyVPFQHmyngAVP0Vn4g-1TS7oROICC2L4AGESwmNyzhRpcPHp-nXmN_FZj8ffF4q77EL0sqRVKNeJKD6lkdcXY/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Broken+Right+Door+037.jpg" height="138" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old rubber after removing divider bar screw</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After pulling apart the door components in preparation to replace the window runners, anti-rattlers and division bar we found that the rubber on the vent windows was rock hard and the rubber seal around the vent window fell apart as we removed the screw that holds the vent frame to the division bar. We had ordered replacement rubber from Dennis Carpenters and I would recommend ordering the vent rubber when <br />
ordering the anti-rattlers so you do not have to wait around for the rubber vent seals to ship separately.<br />
<br />
With the vent window removed from the door frame we cleaned the vent window frame and oiled/greased the moving parts. To do this work you MUST remove the vent window and frame from the door.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZskjMtqUwwJNMkcpNyZgvSX1zfwznQHeMHD08op1eTKWx-eVGfw65IWjrO3DmdO0O42DyV5QqNAax2Lr8GHUyveNAA07gVkxS_hJS__AkypLIgjmTxY6JukXqjb8Zdr9fl8maVtpnR8/s1600/Vent+Rubber+DC+Pack+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a>
<b></b><br />
<b></b>
<b>Pulling Apart the Vent Window</b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrxJWrvypmRjvY0_eDo_ORfyp7xXBaLtTyEvuXFVQ7M1o1UcpAsP15oI8EV4QwCe6AMPoWT6P-uFBLJRvWszCWzICtlT7-9SvMYHFUArqHAkpupnf1uJAreauoOQFnTH4xm1D8mBU1Vus/s1600/Vent+Frame+Right+Door+035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrxJWrvypmRjvY0_eDo_ORfyp7xXBaLtTyEvuXFVQ7M1o1UcpAsP15oI8EV4QwCe6AMPoWT6P-uFBLJRvWszCWzICtlT7-9SvMYHFUArqHAkpupnf1uJAreauoOQFnTH4xm1D8mBU1Vus/s1600/Vent+Frame+Right+Door+035.jpg" height="320" width="165" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vent Frame with pivot bolt</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRvrdOpdR2v4bDfc2srBz3MnEpV-DcuTQ1qoy190Qhsmvuoea_JfKPxO6i2v2LvClosztAxUvjot7_vZMgLkjOLQb_NLftZf_zQZsFq5Ze6vsGPQqR3HzFfG1gb1pJu7qpTkmt3piRDrA/s1600/Vent+Hinge+038a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRvrdOpdR2v4bDfc2srBz3MnEpV-DcuTQ1qoy190Qhsmvuoea_JfKPxO6i2v2LvClosztAxUvjot7_vZMgLkjOLQb_NLftZf_zQZsFq5Ze6vsGPQqR3HzFfG1gb1pJu7qpTkmt3piRDrA/s1600/Vent+Hinge+038a.jpg" height="320" width="191" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vent Window hinge </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The vent window and frame come out of the door connected to each other by a hinge on the outside of the door about 3/4 of the way up, and a spring loaded pivot bolt located about midway across the bottom of the vent window.<br />
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To remove the rubber, we will have to remove the hinge by removing 2 screws holding it into the vent frame and then remove the holding nut, spring and related washers from the pivot bolt allowing the vent window to release from the vent frame. Note the position and order of the washers on the pivot post since these are ribbed and should be put back in the same position they are removed to ensure the vent window only opens half way. We ended up using lots of WD-40 and letting the post sit overnight in order to get the washers off the ribbed pivot post.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5e3KRwbQ-kfN81vndJ78_v_GKiN3u6mHXzkZHWvxAK1T-bFxGvPOWVYm3r8j1PHmM_6xhS4lguPCyHbSFAcN37WkwPUOl92ssTDXP0JerznA-JDpraIgJxP3L3dOdR9lXZH6NyHOs7nc/s1600/Vent+Spring+Right+Door+034b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5e3KRwbQ-kfN81vndJ78_v_GKiN3u6mHXzkZHWvxAK1T-bFxGvPOWVYm3r8j1PHmM_6xhS4lguPCyHbSFAcN37WkwPUOl92ssTDXP0JerznA-JDpraIgJxP3L3dOdR9lXZH6NyHOs7nc/s1600/Vent+Spring+Right+Door+034b.jpg" height="320" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remember the order and position of the pivot post washers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After pulling the old rubber out of the vent window frame we lined up the new rubber. There are some indentations about 3 inches from the top that need to align to similar openings in the frame as well as holes for the pivot post and divider bar at the bottom. When we lined up the rubber and the frame we still had some rubber pushing out of the top and bottom end of the frame, leave this be, when the frame is put back into the door this part of the rubber ensures a tight fit with the window divider.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4XIjvbx0aAGQK9R50pQZmnI0LYO_K9zdrONQ9GJVp4K2EhQqUZyuleu43iOdfXVjcbDIPGkFbmf1GNJGpXyzx_nHMHRZ9mZjZRHEMDtFiPtCfrqojINhOtveN9IcVo8-q3ZMKFEklIE/s1600/Vent+Rubber+DC+Pack+1.jpg" height="320" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="240" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vent Frame and New Rubber</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw4XIjvbx0aAGQK9R50pQZmnI0LYO_K9zdrONQ9GJVp4K2EhQqUZyuleu43iOdfXVjcbDIPGkFbmf1GNJGpXyzx_nHMHRZ9mZjZRHEMDtFiPtCfrqojINhOtveN9IcVo8-q3ZMKFEklIE/s1600/Vent+Rubber+DC+Pack+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZskjMtqUwwJNMkcpNyZgvSX1zfwznQHeMHD08op1eTKWx-eVGfw65IWjrO3DmdO0O42DyV5QqNAax2Lr8GHUyveNAA07gVkxS_hJS__AkypLIgjmTxY6JukXqjb8Zdr9fl8maVtpnR8/s1600/Vent+Rubber+DC+Pack+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZskjMtqUwwJNMkcpNyZgvSX1zfwznQHeMHD08op1eTKWx-eVGfw65IWjrO3DmdO0O42DyV5QqNAax2Lr8GHUyveNAA07gVkxS_hJS__AkypLIgjmTxY6JukXqjb8Zdr9fl8maVtpnR8/s1600/Vent+Rubber+DC+Pack+2.jpg" height="320" width="234" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New rubber was soft and very pliable</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The seals were made of soft rubber and we found out pretty quickly that it snapped into place by inserting the side with the big overhang (frame that will be outside door) all along the frame first and then, holding the frame with your hands, pushing the other side until it snapped into place working your way top to bottom.<br />
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Once again, make sure the holes for the divider bar screw and the pivot post line up with the holes in the vent frame.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEM3UyE1kubluBNi7piO5-z4vADcHpicbjh9q2Fh41R8AJ4UIfrSA_LHi59UtVU_EhJvQr8HSVZSaM11j7-Vmfkj-FSvV8KEWxnEtcmNb5OgzxS0uiWFvRz3VyloIutzumTzVfC66Mn3Q/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Step+1+004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEM3UyE1kubluBNi7piO5-z4vADcHpicbjh9q2Fh41R8AJ4UIfrSA_LHi59UtVU_EhJvQr8HSVZSaM11j7-Vmfkj-FSvV8KEWxnEtcmNb5OgzxS0uiWFvRz3VyloIutzumTzVfC66Mn3Q/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Step+1+004.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step 1 - line up and insert side of rubber with wide lip </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfV_wXPc0yrkYn5WI23g9-FYaBsLLCgTegm5k4oFB5Sx0rnFyngRRZqzlRpITISy-akmE34dIFTAvCyJrO6VHfMWQScrByLYfLCYKQXFHK4YHnwiiV78wavjAZU4HmdGgpFAzZgm9LX9s/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Step+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfV_wXPc0yrkYn5WI23g9-FYaBsLLCgTegm5k4oFB5Sx0rnFyngRRZqzlRpITISy-akmE34dIFTAvCyJrO6VHfMWQScrByLYfLCYKQXFHK4YHnwiiV78wavjAZU4HmdGgpFAzZgm9LX9s/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Step+2.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step 2 - align grooves, push in rubber</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMbu6IiGKF26F8h2jyU1uoIJwggMg5X8FIrDpauIu0sTVIL0AIfctYZe1hgRIDnO1vIeLG-iAcXKf3FVTmg6yeOJm-kQtll9E48BvVck9tQf8YKf1WuoFnfR9PIYERG9x6wWAiE3pGLlo/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Step+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMbu6IiGKF26F8h2jyU1uoIJwggMg5X8FIrDpauIu0sTVIL0AIfctYZe1hgRIDnO1vIeLG-iAcXKf3FVTmg6yeOJm-kQtll9E48BvVck9tQf8YKf1WuoFnfR9PIYERG9x6wWAiE3pGLlo/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Step+3.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step 3 - apply pressure to other side of rubber to snap in place</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghnEpF6OUe0Gvsw_sK0EBz0r9hVqYhKiXYIeYOcD6IxuJlMGWeiMxfRTmSEQa4_jKqf07pn11lKUmUVDQS_OQe8Vqbx9fDNPcpw6buGLsSOnc4KHuf1QHES6vfRFce_NEqlBL01K91ujQ/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Step+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghnEpF6OUe0Gvsw_sK0EBz0r9hVqYhKiXYIeYOcD6IxuJlMGWeiMxfRTmSEQa4_jKqf07pn11lKUmUVDQS_OQe8Vqbx9fDNPcpw6buGLsSOnc4KHuf1QHES6vfRFce_NEqlBL01K91ujQ/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Step+4.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step 4 - work your way down to the bottom of frame</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWvDLdYkul_hcZnikLxIVk0QR6HZ8ZJiJfNHBK0vi4O7XKpWjaFkk0YhqRw9sTeVzGRjt3MCtJQIBad8-zJLeWvUK32IZdcxH_DMwJbzKOjy9aiKsImLKajw2NubqGmHunNy7saclEFg/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Step+5a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWvDLdYkul_hcZnikLxIVk0QR6HZ8ZJiJfNHBK0vi4O7XKpWjaFkk0YhqRw9sTeVzGRjt3MCtJQIBad8-zJLeWvUK32IZdcxH_DMwJbzKOjy9aiKsImLKajw2NubqGmHunNy7saclEFg/s1600/Vent+Rubber+Step+5a.jpg" height="320" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step 5 - ensure holes on bottom line up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimM6O-D18kwX22_A_dCx9dLhkMT0cpxKHScsLAHlh5thB9FywPYRcrmbqS_YwEq452KAk89fQxaEN9EFy-MzvwNwDHGxT_c02u1QJMiwr3uR1YAb35EmExJNoC2K05JDKQ8Dif58SZqIY/s1600/Old-New+Divider+Pre+Paint+033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimM6O-D18kwX22_A_dCx9dLhkMT0cpxKHScsLAHlh5thB9FywPYRcrmbqS_YwEq452KAk89fQxaEN9EFy-MzvwNwDHGxT_c02u1QJMiwr3uR1YAb35EmExJNoC2K05JDKQ8Dif58SZqIY/s1600/Old-New+Divider+Pre+Paint+033.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old and New Divider Bars</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-26110712870044865902015-02-15T18:13:00.000-08:002015-02-23T15:39:39.896-08:00Replacement Division Bars Need TweakingThe window division bars we received from Dennis Carpenter are pretty good replica's of the originals with a few minor exceptions. First we noticed the top portion of the bar that is visible both inside and outside is all stainless steel rather than the semi-gloss back of the original.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixmC-wcwQ7Oaa65RSFmOIXWqCJPaFnvF7O7xBQBtw6i8MN3c8J5DBtk3iOLpPV13N58sSUdP9olvLGIB-T0V1P97gnCrmN1CNd3k0-WYmueqhVEFdjbG4k7_92vyZ-V8DQcRdCawSlbNI/s1600/Right+Door+-+division+Bar+differences+024b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixmC-wcwQ7Oaa65RSFmOIXWqCJPaFnvF7O7xBQBtw6i8MN3c8J5DBtk3iOLpPV13N58sSUdP9olvLGIB-T0V1P97gnCrmN1CNd3k0-WYmueqhVEFdjbG4k7_92vyZ-V8DQcRdCawSlbNI/s1600/Right+Door+-+division+Bar+differences+024b.jpg" height="400" width="155" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Division Bars</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jQ27-gdC7APSQq7HfuWeyhjQYNaaOvGoADDC1cJ2ILrIUBYq2jr-QFFQ85bu_J9ISf1F8XbYZClBbwYw9S7jI_HAxaZwnWdb-Hc3MyFXq3DiebYHjTwfZczAPZAtWhGRro2PVkiaYoY/s1600/Right+Door+-+division+Bar+differences+nuts++025b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1jQ27-gdC7APSQq7HfuWeyhjQYNaaOvGoADDC1cJ2ILrIUBYq2jr-QFFQ85bu_J9ISf1F8XbYZClBbwYw9S7jI_HAxaZwnWdb-Hc3MyFXq3DiebYHjTwfZczAPZAtWhGRro2PVkiaYoY/s1600/Right+Door+-+division+Bar+differences+nuts++025b.jpg" height="320" width="281" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vent frame connector nuts and housings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Second, the nut for receiving the screw attaching the bottom bar of the vent window to the division bar is the wrong size.<br />
<br />
Some people wrote on the FTE web site that the 2 screws holding the vent frame to the door frame are the same size just a different length but upon inspection we find this is not true. The screw holding the vent frame to the division bar is a different size, head type, and is pointed on the end.<br />
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<b><br /></b>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5P3lL8K89VUb6SwnRZ1c0nX9zUHuHZxcBNIhMMyyavzQXFSAUijvb_NXMgF6KbvCpsncxWRkQZNjZxFEwMQg2KkeWQvdgyQD8qyOk6qdQLWlhPip-H3AEGVxUOX1XuUEkdmPzpxyzgPw/s1600/Right+Door+-+division+Bar+differences+nuts++031b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5P3lL8K89VUb6SwnRZ1c0nX9zUHuHZxcBNIhMMyyavzQXFSAUijvb_NXMgF6KbvCpsncxWRkQZNjZxFEwMQg2KkeWQvdgyQD8qyOk6qdQLWlhPip-H3AEGVxUOX1XuUEkdmPzpxyzgPw/s1600/Right+Door+-+division+Bar+differences+nuts++031b.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vent frame screws and nuts</td></tr>
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<b>Painting the division bars: </b><br />
After masking off the areas we want to paint, we shot two coats of semi-gloss. We let dry for a few days to make sure the paint had dried. We shot both sides of the bar but taped off the bottom 1.5" of the inside chrome to maintain the original look.<br />
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<b>Replacing the vent nut in the division bar: </b><br />
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With a small flat head screw driver, We carefully bent the housing retaining the square vent window nut and replaced it with the original nut, carefully bending the retention housing back into place. </div>
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John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-77581054005129359392015-02-14T12:23:00.000-08:002015-02-25T09:56:12.766-08:00Removing the Old Anti-rattlers and WindowsLast Saturday we attempted to follow the step by step illustration for replacing the window anti-rattlers and window division bar from the DC catalog. Old Blue's door hardware was in pretty good shape so removal of pieces went smoothly and no real issues presented themselves as we tore the door down to the shell.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZu2vBX3zwPIqHvN6Ivd7ba0IlB75jE-MU6Fo40MpC35zLn9tk06IkA9DkvOCDvDS2YsF7wFegm_CP7sbZvUXkwpDCmGf2YxYIGu4juMJpfFXjtjwZNR9QTOyFN9jkNalMg6rkSyuJ2c/s1600/Right+Door+001a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZu2vBX3zwPIqHvN6Ivd7ba0IlB75jE-MU6Fo40MpC35zLn9tk06IkA9DkvOCDvDS2YsF7wFegm_CP7sbZvUXkwpDCmGf2YxYIGu4juMJpfFXjtjwZNR9QTOyFN9jkNalMg6rkSyuJ2c/s1600/Right+Door+001a.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We started with the Passenger Door</td></tr>
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First, a quick review of our plan; after all handles, door trim, access panel and armrest are removed, our plan was to release the door glass from the regulator arm; place glass in the bottom of the door (we'd remove it later), remove the division bar, the old wipers/anti-rattlers and then the vent window. This sequence would have worked except the regulator is attached to the window glass by a plastic roller and our rollers were frozen in place by years of rust on the regulator roller post.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI2rN5yjT5REx3CqlqzWB4eYaXHvWxG3flI09hVNjYTExs6eoaZe75gju3tfzfI-SDpEIxl6tHNwvAwN44afEQajieCf24bWhQdCgoHbSPWSxj8Jn6Se6biuPQtFvxR7HQtg959si1nzw/s1600/Right+Door+007b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI2rN5yjT5REx3CqlqzWB4eYaXHvWxG3flI09hVNjYTExs6eoaZe75gju3tfzfI-SDpEIxl6tHNwvAwN44afEQajieCf24bWhQdCgoHbSPWSxj8Jn6Se6biuPQtFvxR7HQtg959si1nzw/s1600/Right+Door+007b.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arm Roller is the little plastic thing</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtW1a0TFvBlkb_dzsVCZ22H8KZ1lPbs_Y6wf7L8OWd0pKbodWo-Nqeb7Tblsq_LTHk3iNuh3MLc7nCVhkaAOuhN_dqfqAuuV0xVYuCkmiieeuSjFoWc202usbyszaDyeGpL86HFjrroYE/s1600/Right+Door+Vent+Screw++023b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtW1a0TFvBlkb_dzsVCZ22H8KZ1lPbs_Y6wf7L8OWd0pKbodWo-Nqeb7Tblsq_LTHk3iNuh3MLc7nCVhkaAOuhN_dqfqAuuV0xVYuCkmiieeuSjFoWc202usbyszaDyeGpL86HFjrroYE/s1600/Right+Door+Vent+Screw++023b.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a>So, even though we removed the clip, the regulator would not release from the window. We had to slip the roller out of the end of the channel to separate the regulator and window. This required us to loosened the two division bar 3/8" nuts removed by inserting a socket wrench through the door access panel and reaching up to remove them. We then removed the vent frame screw that is in the bottom of the frame connecting it to the division bar. It was well embedded in the vent rubber (now hard and brittle) and took a little effort to unscrew. Lastly were the two screws on the top of the door frame and the division bar was loose.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPMVH1KognMp3r9OJeOYYhlr7EviDSuad8yTWq39dt-JXjUolhSoLCKT6q2hiE1WG7I6tYTiOK-jX0IA0Jjmush00GFgYT5kU-d7i3KWakYUsL5iTcoxuNJMbb4wlmB90MAbx2KpdsL18/s1600/Right+Door+022b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPMVH1KognMp3r9OJeOYYhlr7EviDSuad8yTWq39dt-JXjUolhSoLCKT6q2hiE1WG7I6tYTiOK-jX0IA0Jjmush00GFgYT5kU-d7i3KWakYUsL5iTcoxuNJMbb4wlmB90MAbx2KpdsL18/s1600/Right+Door+022b.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a>We still didn't have enough room to release the regulator from the glass so we removed the vent windows to give us room for some maneuvering of the regulator. The two screws through the front of the door frame was all that remained and the vent frame was loose. We slid it towards the division bar and after closing the vent window lifted the frame out of the door. Note: Removal of the vent glass and frame required the vent window to be closed to allow the spring mechanism clearance through the door shell.<br />
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We then slid the division bar forward and by putting the window crank back on and turning as if to roll down the window we were successful in slipping the arm roller out of the channel.<br />
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Once the regulator was free from the glass we removed the regulator mechanism (makes removal of the division bar easier) and lifted the window out through the access panel.<br />
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Removing the division bar is a bear. With vent, glass, and regulator all laying on the workbench there was not much left on the door by this point and yet we were still challenged to get the division bar out of the access panel. Bottom line is the division bars are a tight fit to remove and install; we rotated them per online instructions 180 degrees to remove (turn the lower mounting bracket that bolts to the top of the regulator towards the outside door skin during removal and install through the access panel hole.</div>
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Finally we removed the old anti-rattlers including the door run (pulls right out bottom to top, and both bottom of window runs by inserting a wooden shim (left over from some door work) next to each clip. The clips just pop out releasing the run.The shims are soft wood so no paint chipping occurs - I would stay away from using a screw driver for this reason.<br />
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With the various pieces removed from the door we cleaned and lubricated all movable parts. As we said, the plastic regulator rollers were frozen to the regulator arm and we soaked these in WD-40 and then by carefully grabbing the plastic rollers with pliers and rocking the piece, it freed from the regulator post. I believe this was the root cause of the loud squeaking noise the kids hear every time they roll the window up or down. Over the years the rollers had frozen into place and the metal channel that it rides in on the bottom of the glass had cut through the plastic leaving rusted metal on metal rubbing against each other as the window was rolled up and down. We will replace the rollers.<br />
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REPLACEMENT PARTS<br />
We replaced all parts with new rubber seals, division bars etc, so my door frames where just a shell for this installation procedure. I had to order, in addition to the anti-rattler kit and vent rubber from DC, new plastic arm rollers for the regulator (I have since seen these same Arm Rollers offered for half the price ..so shop around!).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZFeG9VLMwSrj5QaQfxfp2wz848GJL4p5CnBFpH2dYjapMPlfOER-WGGjtzVs1zLm_xv08WVriBE8jSKVKHqAr-RHFU9ctJi2GRLd2EE9GjnXITF1Rsqbw21duyNyeXbMX4zVfO9_Rk4/s1600/DC+Product+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ZFeG9VLMwSrj5QaQfxfp2wz848GJL4p5CnBFpH2dYjapMPlfOER-WGGjtzVs1zLm_xv08WVriBE8jSKVKHqAr-RHFU9ctJi2GRLd2EE9GjnXITF1Rsqbw21duyNyeXbMX4zVfO9_Rk4/s1600/DC+Product+2.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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The replacement division bars differ from the original on Old Blue's Custom Cab by being all chrome on the part of the bar that is visible. The originals are semi-gloss black with the only chrome being the section of the division bar that the vent window latch moves against and the bar edges. We will mask off and paint the new bars to match the old as the vent window frames are also this semi-gloss back and I like the look. I will paint the division bars while waiting for the arm rollers to ship.<br />
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John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-26021312437775761572015-01-16T09:54:00.000-08:002015-02-19T14:30:14.602-08:00Winter Refresh Now that winter is here, Old Blue doesn't get out of the garage quite so often so we will take this time to do some of the maintenance work that requires longer tear down times. Gracie has been bugging me about the squeaking noise when she roles down the passenger side window and the master brake cylinder seems to be getting mushy so we will take on these two tasks while the rains are falling and hopefully Old Blue will be ready for the spring drives through town.<br />
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<b>Squeaky Windows:</b></div>
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Whenever the kids roll down the passenger side window it makes high pitched 'SQUEAK' that makes them recoil and yell 'Dad, we need to fix this ...' so I took to the Ford Truck Enthusiast site to find out what can be done about this noise. Wasn't difficult to find many threads in the FE forums speaking to the issue and the fix, however, all contained warnings that this task of replacing the window felt was not for the faint of heart.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeFN3ETF1SB_Ao3wRJ4hUWZNTA6x6L-HOHTGMZTaQrTJvw2iZV6YFzOPFqeYrke2ZXXkkwQnc7hwz3vcpviDdsyvkjNOgBuCQ2rd8ksZFgRd_WbIegzLEAuuHPDZrQRVVODgIXbI5HZ4k/s1600/door+window+-+cut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeFN3ETF1SB_Ao3wRJ4hUWZNTA6x6L-HOHTGMZTaQrTJvw2iZV6YFzOPFqeYrke2ZXXkkwQnc7hwz3vcpviDdsyvkjNOgBuCQ2rd8ksZFgRd_WbIegzLEAuuHPDZrQRVVODgIXbI5HZ4k/s1600/door+window+-+cut.jpg" height="280" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">!966 Ford F-250 Door Components</span></td></tr>
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I looked at the usual suspects to procure the parts needed and decided on the Dennis Carpenter option available at http://dennis-carpenter.com/truck57-66/c/13/<br />
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I selected the bundle package that included all the parts for both drivers and passenger side doors.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oHInA6K-DpmBd2f82P_XzmRjWD9DT7-t5Z2LQEGmJUivSEEJ_E1GRIZXiD-xUvrDib4pw4lZ8UiHQRZsZqFiW-4SMuzQlzf9yjQHaz2kcVXRqsaKDpUc-DMwfSgMUAUEMxCrHgaX8Cw/s1600/DC+Product.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oHInA6K-DpmBd2f82P_XzmRjWD9DT7-t5Z2LQEGmJUivSEEJ_E1GRIZXiD-xUvrDib4pw4lZ8UiHQRZsZqFiW-4SMuzQlzf9yjQHaz2kcVXRqsaKDpUc-DMwfSgMUAUEMxCrHgaX8Cw/s1600/DC+Product.jpg" height="245" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dennis Carpenter Anti-Rattler Offering</td></tr>
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and on the recommendation of many of the people who have updated their windows previously I opted to replace the vent window rubber at the same time since I would be pulling out those windows during the process and looking at them today, they are hard as rock and very brittle.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Fr7Gj9LO0pb1xqXFAWp9dMV_pSjHrl1n_BccK_RMf99mXwWnEY0YGKdJ7hRm4-NEi9qwkoMaFrdeHAWBp3gG_Ecv1te9eMLotDJRP5_dK31HoqEORyp8-0HFZ7S-y0ZZKUoPA9AIG7w/s1600/DC+Product+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Fr7Gj9LO0pb1xqXFAWp9dMV_pSjHrl1n_BccK_RMf99mXwWnEY0YGKdJ7hRm4-NEi9qwkoMaFrdeHAWBp3gG_Ecv1te9eMLotDJRP5_dK31HoqEORyp8-0HFZ7S-y0ZZKUoPA9AIG7w/s1600/DC+Product+3.jpg" height="218" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vent Window Rubber</td></tr>
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Parts should arrive this week and hopefully we can start installation over the weekend.<br />
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<b>Rebuild Master Brake Cylinder:</b><br />
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Not sure if this is really the root cause of the mushy brakes but after a little research it seems to be the appropriate place to begin my remediation. </div>
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John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-89128299415316374562014-10-13T13:05:00.000-07:002015-02-10T09:56:55.571-08:00Assembling The Instrument Cluster w/New Bezel <div>
Using the new bezel and lens rings, but the old lens, instrument cluster, optional gauges I will build a new instrument cluster that I hope looks close to original. To complete the process I need to do the following:<br />
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1. Cut holes in the new bezel for the optional gauges<br />
2. Re-mount optional gauges on new bezel<br />
3. Mount new gauge lens rings on old lens<br />
4. Mount old primary cluster to new bezel<br />
5. Mount completed instrument cluster in Old Blue<br />
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<b>Cutting Holes in the New Bezel:</b></div>
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This task concerned me the most about the whole bezel replacement as I had read that you only get one shot at this and that many things can go wrong, from obvious misplacement to wrong hole size to cracking bezel plastic, etc. Also, there is no consensus on what size the hole should be. Bill at the FE forums shows the page from the shop manual that says these should be 2 3/16", other writers say they used 2 1/16" so I measured the existing holes as well as the gauge housing and I came up with 2 1/8" for both. I MEASURED 3 TIMES just to be sure ! </div>
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It took a while to find a 2 1/8" hole drill for plastic as I did not want to spend $45 for some special made professional diamond coated bit and settled for OSH's craftsmen bit for $8. </div>
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I had spent a good deal of time anticipating HOW I would position the holes on the new bezel. I knew this was very important as I would be looking at the gauges for many years and if they were not aligned .. Hmmm ... well, hole placement on the bezel was actually very straight forward. The bezel had positioning points on the back for the optional gauge holes. I just turned the bezel over and after measuring the old holes AGAIN, I gently pressed the drill into the plastic and let the teeth do their work. On the first hole I did not apply enough pressure and the plastic started to melt rather than cut, when I noticed this I applied more pressure and the hole popped right out. I then cut the second hole with no incident.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNWPsd8asSjoHbLFSyJjsVfwOIKZP7_j80rOL6Jp91lejWOtunGKXskJmACQPpeeM2X6LYmQ-COYtDjLeN5VPRkhJ3J4I4fPNhPzuYtVWtGRDTbkLiWRJvi4gxlJWSN4OeAGaIWixbDg/s1600/Drill+holes+Bezel2+021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNWPsd8asSjoHbLFSyJjsVfwOIKZP7_j80rOL6Jp91lejWOtunGKXskJmACQPpeeM2X6LYmQ-COYtDjLeN5VPRkhJ3J4I4fPNhPzuYtVWtGRDTbkLiWRJvi4gxlJWSN4OeAGaIWixbDg/s1600/Drill+holes+Bezel2+021.jpg" height="282" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 13.3333339691162px;">Drilling the optional gauge holes in the DC Bezel</span></td></tr>
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<b>Mounting the Optional Gauges:</b><br />
The optional gauges slip through the front of the bezel and held in place by the gauge housing by 2 nuts secured to the same posts that the wires connect to. Make sure the gauges are straight before gently tightening the nuts with a 3/8" wrench, taking care not to over tighten and cracking the bezel.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiTLlTqbpBpSrIaKUjgwQXgbMQyOdepxRJwVbs-vpaKxdRciW5DYtUQbcshv3H89c0Xbt-z5O7yMpljWFJBF3jzyvYRNP9oHU_O0H3p6FSbNi5OCEgHtkMwzf95vUI8XXttc5bTAltf5w/s1600/ALT+Gauge+off+Bezel+022a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiTLlTqbpBpSrIaKUjgwQXgbMQyOdepxRJwVbs-vpaKxdRciW5DYtUQbcshv3H89c0Xbt-z5O7yMpljWFJBF3jzyvYRNP9oHU_O0H3p6FSbNi5OCEgHtkMwzf95vUI8XXttc5bTAltf5w/s1600/ALT+Gauge+off+Bezel+022a.jpg" height="320" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mount the gauge on the bezel by pushing gauge through front</td></tr>
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<b>Mounting the New Gauge Rings on the Old Lens:</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdqlBs2XZXQk27TlQ3UUwVjc9rlp7MSMoTKT3qH3SaDfHF_9L8mVAs_NTdzK92s9BZIfJnwLlbM2Shegpt82HyIGDPQKs-Pydb50wT3bS3hKz_FFmnvQJZBo4aI_cM8xQbXii7FCxz6aU/s1600/Rings+on+Old+Lens+Bezel2+014a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdqlBs2XZXQk27TlQ3UUwVjc9rlp7MSMoTKT3qH3SaDfHF_9L8mVAs_NTdzK92s9BZIfJnwLlbM2Shegpt82HyIGDPQKs-Pydb50wT3bS3hKz_FFmnvQJZBo4aI_cM8xQbXii7FCxz6aU/s1600/Rings+on+Old+Lens+Bezel2+014a.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Newly painted rings on old lens</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Mounting the inner gauge rings took a little finessing as the bottom mounting tab on the back of the ring is manufactured 1/16" of an inch lower than the originals. The two top tabs fit in the original holes perfectly, so I took a pair of wire cutters and snipped off the bottom tab on each of the two rings. Slipping the two top tabs into the lens, I dropped a little gorilla glue into the tab holes and let dry, securing the rings to the face of the lens.<br />
<br />
<div>
<b>Mount Old Gauge Cluster in the New Bezel:</b></div>
<div>
Turn the bezel on its face and slip the lens in place, then mount the primary gauge cluster aligning the little tabs to ensure a tight fit. The cluster only fits one way the seven retaining screws hold firmly.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_HRmql95qQzzHC8JG_W7lRyHo0LO-WP2yE1c1PxnavNgnOEwG4_e7Za1a-7fA2nKw3PnHRyIxZ2vFm5KbsjV3QiZ2B9dpme1RbTHA6T9pGZQB3My2Z8Lf_sf8HFokMwldqEf0fQQQdQA/s1600/Bezel2+027a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_HRmql95qQzzHC8JG_W7lRyHo0LO-WP2yE1c1PxnavNgnOEwG4_e7Za1a-7fA2nKw3PnHRyIxZ2vFm5KbsjV3QiZ2B9dpme1RbTHA6T9pGZQB3My2Z8Lf_sf8HFokMwldqEf0fQQQdQA/s1600/Bezel2+027a.jpg" height="320" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reassembled Bezel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><br /></b><b>Mount the complete Instrument Cluster in the Dash: </b><br />
Now comes the fun part, positioning the new bezel into the dash I re-connected the wiring from left to right checking against pictures I took before removing to unsure correct wiring; saving the speedometer cable until last and attaching this by reaching up behind the dash and turning the single nut until hand tight,.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs8l8WJes4vHjWz16atKOyAUwEO0n8_yg4SGGMEU_Rjp76mKc3bpN7_-Gt8L4xlOz3Cq6vBSKe7jxnB8qg6fKGXESQqG1oBNsrx7e9Tmf0zFkywZX7orGAYXiRNNoJ0OWBQn6N19UOYzA/s1600/New+Cluster+Bezel3+004a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs8l8WJes4vHjWz16atKOyAUwEO0n8_yg4SGGMEU_Rjp76mKc3bpN7_-Gt8L4xlOz3Cq6vBSKe7jxnB8qg6fKGXESQqG1oBNsrx7e9Tmf0zFkywZX7orGAYXiRNNoJ0OWBQn6N19UOYzA/s1600/New+Cluster+Bezel3+004a.jpg" height="338" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">!966 Instrument Cluster</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Quite a difference !!!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGESMFQKuv8P4W0Za5rnJiDNZelAr2-XCVQR7wajReChju7qI91sNS_TDh3NJRFiw2YOQnjl2Dz2nKwDkSblTRvWJMaaAPjyhBWewCkaQxAiGF26LwNKmCHIIHwQ_xPWV58bkZBaaOtls/s1600/OLD-NEW+Compare+Bezel2+024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGESMFQKuv8P4W0Za5rnJiDNZelAr2-XCVQR7wajReChju7qI91sNS_TDh3NJRFiw2YOQnjl2Dz2nKwDkSblTRvWJMaaAPjyhBWewCkaQxAiGF26LwNKmCHIIHwQ_xPWV58bkZBaaOtls/s1600/OLD-NEW+Compare+Bezel2+024.jpg" height="270" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old v. New </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-9765294565097922002014-10-12T16:01:00.000-07:002014-10-21T14:49:02.546-07:00Refreshing the Optional GaugesOld Blue came from the factory with the optional Alternator and Oil Pressure gauges mounted on the outer flats of the bezel. To mount them I will have to drill holes for each of them in the reproduced bezel, however before doing this, I will clean the chrome, polish the plastic and repaint the needles so they are fluorescent red again instead of the faded orange they are today.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVh9IDJ1sHqifKDle0zPPZNF3lSP9rfthaaJ9Jt3Wo1GxlwGKlzNQsWCuSbf893Yq69LTyrJY-8RqYigH_Bim3-xoa4berWt-zCEbXnwmMK68giokgNNkAy8yxYVAZhsbH9kpMUp55nms/s1600/Orig+Bezel+tagged+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVh9IDJ1sHqifKDle0zPPZNF3lSP9rfthaaJ9Jt3Wo1GxlwGKlzNQsWCuSbf893Yq69LTyrJY-8RqYigH_Bim3-xoa4berWt-zCEbXnwmMK68giokgNNkAy8yxYVAZhsbH9kpMUp55nms/s1600/Orig+Bezel+tagged+007.jpg" height="193" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1966 Ford F-250 Custom Cab Instrument Cluster</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Tasks:<br />
1. Breaking down each gauge <br />
2. Removing rust and polishing chrome on the rings<br />
3. Polishing the plastic lens<br />
4. Painting the needles<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPhv1I3PwoFq3zanhWgv-5tAcGhhInBUmq4HBx2nfMITRFAYZwYyR6peD88M7yFbcdmQMGKhgqGi21ol1PmUq3YraYjRLTqG1UKbmwMRPCNAI3_kzums98Tx09R_EpnKjXlFnu-1wI9FE/s1600/Org+Alt+Bezel+015a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPhv1I3PwoFq3zanhWgv-5tAcGhhInBUmq4HBx2nfMITRFAYZwYyR6peD88M7yFbcdmQMGKhgqGi21ol1PmUq3YraYjRLTqG1UKbmwMRPCNAI3_kzums98Tx09R_EpnKjXlFnu-1wI9FE/s1600/Org+Alt+Bezel+015a.jpg" height="400" width="388" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ALT Gauge removed from bezel - rust on face ring </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Breaking Down the Gauges</b><br />
To clean the gauges I will break them down to their components parts, which requires a small flat head screwdriver to pry up the retaining tabs located around the lip of the chrome ring. There are 5 tabs and you want to take care not to bend them back and forth as they can break off with too much movement.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0hBJBcklmwlpsb_F6eh70mVCrHPmC8btX5jJDQ75uJsQgKORPtjlGgnw0uOUSk-sVOIsJxf273w5RcdwD7ToCslZYZa9x6A8kY-Mw46lrOxAC0BOvleh13kZvsvnz9oLlvM3eEZg76EU/s1600/AlLT+backside+alone+tagged+Bezel+051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0hBJBcklmwlpsb_F6eh70mVCrHPmC8btX5jJDQ75uJsQgKORPtjlGgnw0uOUSk-sVOIsJxf273w5RcdwD7ToCslZYZa9x6A8kY-Mw46lrOxAC0BOvleh13kZvsvnz9oLlvM3eEZg76EU/s1600/AlLT+backside+alone+tagged+Bezel+051.jpg" height="296" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Removing Cover Ring</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Lift the tabs and the chrome ring separates from the gauge housing, allowing the plastic lens holding ring to be lifted off the gauge. The lens separates by gently pushing up from the back of the holding ring.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MDz0X61i8aaIo3VlkGQoOJ7SZWUD48ICgDTwsgsb_7Ym9E0Q9OQFJQ1Ciz3nJ09gm4k0JnPayyr8Xs8T5VJ1hIdZXuO4j2iTb5ihQS_P3ao0q5wAbN-cLfdw77VPM3NJj_wtHdCh5es/s1600/ALT+Diassembled+tagged+Bezel+034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4MDz0X61i8aaIo3VlkGQoOJ7SZWUD48ICgDTwsgsb_7Ym9E0Q9OQFJQ1Ciz3nJ09gm4k0JnPayyr8Xs8T5VJ1hIdZXuO4j2iTb5ihQS_P3ao0q5wAbN-cLfdw77VPM3NJj_wtHdCh5es/s1600/ALT+Diassembled+tagged+Bezel+034.jpg" height="400" width="243" /></a></div>
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The lens holding ring has a slot at the top and the lens fits into this slot to allow light from the bulb in the gauge housing to illuminate the face of the gauge at night. The lens can only fit one way into the holding ring.<br />
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The lens is plastic<br />
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The Face plate on these gauges are chromed metal and the inner face is painted argent just like other surfaces on the bezel.<br />
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<b>Removing Rust and Polishing the Ring: </b><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBfLQgA4lnDifAxS5jyaja1leXsaiPLMXuQ9I6pXyLWU_gYIxa9NQJZ2KlRzwgcHh2Jt-Z-21MGikDDvf8NovtoPeuHdBufm33mRoJm7QBvkCba5REA_rhvMCtveMZL-zwtwHJRFAjGs/s1600/ALT+Face+Ring+alone+Bezel+034a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBfLQgA4lnDifAxS5jyaja1leXsaiPLMXuQ9I6pXyLWU_gYIxa9NQJZ2KlRzwgcHh2Jt-Z-21MGikDDvf8NovtoPeuHdBufm33mRoJm7QBvkCba5REA_rhvMCtveMZL-zwtwHJRFAjGs/s1600/ALT+Face+Ring+alone+Bezel+034a.jpg" height="308" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Face Ring </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The ring has rust and pitting on the chrome so we will use the same techniques we use with our bicycle handles ... using aluminium foil dipped in a little water, we rub the surface of the chrome lightly removing rust and bumps. I want to take care not to mess with the argent inner surface as I do not want to repaint since they are in pretty good shape.<br />
<br />
I will use Mothers Chrome polish to shine up the surface and we should be good to go !<br />
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<b>Polishing the Plastic</b><b>:</b><br />
The plastic lens has a few scratches and is dirty so we will use the Novus product recommended by TAP plastics to remove scatches in plastic and to give the surface a clean surface. The Novus products work well and I use the #2 and #1 only on the gauge lens. I carefully avoid the white paint on the lens (OIL / ALT) so I do not mess up the original mask.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMIQk4HvgXm9sTDmmToIgy3KYiC-Xntw7TtGVHdCv3KHex-TXLnPNjYDHDI5_ZWILDsKyEMlrTIB8_vjSURXxFAIBUIdYgr-IgiQQrBqOkZpQZj8SdG34fRj5dVjaSvZYkGF8Wucpl6qs/s1600/Novus+Bezel+021a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMIQk4HvgXm9sTDmmToIgy3KYiC-Xntw7TtGVHdCv3KHex-TXLnPNjYDHDI5_ZWILDsKyEMlrTIB8_vjSURXxFAIBUIdYgr-IgiQQrBqOkZpQZj8SdG34fRj5dVjaSvZYkGF8Wucpl6qs/s1600/Novus+Bezel+021a.jpg" height="252" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plastic Scratch Remover and Polish </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div>
<b>Painting the Needles:</b></div>
<div>
The needle in the gauge has faded through the years and is now a light orange color. Reading on the FE forums from others who have refreshed their gauges I follow their recommendations and get a RED FLUORESCENT paint pen from the local Michaels. I selected the liquitex brand. Everything I read said to make sure you get fluorescent paint as normal red will not show up as well when driving at night with lights. </div>
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<div>
I slip a piece of newspaper between the <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9XJ6Vs4hdnuNz7h_JMG9A5sOeE9wg-TI2A2qBbcN9orenMNzouHJfi401at6PpoxhlDeVoy8wI8mSJU_weHcEuV5fnkfXpuPX3sdwgECWAA1MKqH_1OWgqPkQYGnjTf-h_Ww9pLlu5XA/s1600/ALT+Gauge+Stripped+Bezel+034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9XJ6Vs4hdnuNz7h_JMG9A5sOeE9wg-TI2A2qBbcN9orenMNzouHJfi401at6PpoxhlDeVoy8wI8mSJU_weHcEuV5fnkfXpuPX3sdwgECWAA1MKqH_1OWgqPkQYGnjTf-h_Ww9pLlu5XA/s1600/ALT+Gauge+Stripped+Bezel+034.jpg" height="320" width="315" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to paint needle</td></tr>
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needle and the black background to keep from messing up the black and gently apply the red paint to the needle ... </div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitRFsKk3sARko3kfRF_fswmbS0H704AJrEJt4mhckonSogfY0f9blJtKzykqXcjq8M9nrLttHke1dmGBvZeuGyQQ8f9bbNHQTxqXiTkqj95Xxpc0yaydN3LRyw9ynE7juElmUT0h2jtIY/s1600/Red+Paint+Pen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitRFsKk3sARko3kfRF_fswmbS0H704AJrEJt4mhckonSogfY0f9blJtKzykqXcjq8M9nrLttHke1dmGBvZeuGyQQ8f9bbNHQTxqXiTkqj95Xxpc0yaydN3LRyw9ynE7juElmUT0h2jtIY/s1600/Red+Paint+Pen.jpg" height="138" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Paint Pen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
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The needles are delicate and move around a bit. I took care not to push too hard or to bend the needles and just gently stroked on the paint, occasionally, pushing the pen down on a piece of newspapers to keep the paint flowing. The shape of the needles required I paint the left side and right side separately, doing a couple of coats to cover the needle completely. <br />
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Reassembling the gauge is just the reverse of the tear down process, once again take care when bending the ring tabs.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE4AALyTVTdrWXTbpl-oDksYlGNPPI8XD5BJ_LbF6EafRdZh5sp9GaZuXb81BDyZ5cmhcEO6G4_RymRka8ALbHpg6KzROIUtUaCstaNQVIeFapeFBlcK6h3vhy1ukjbWNkCsIjqQBPzNQ/s1600/OIL+POST+Clean.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE4AALyTVTdrWXTbpl-oDksYlGNPPI8XD5BJ_LbF6EafRdZh5sp9GaZuXb81BDyZ5cmhcEO6G4_RymRka8ALbHpg6KzROIUtUaCstaNQVIeFapeFBlcK6h3vhy1ukjbWNkCsIjqQBPzNQ/s1600/OIL+POST+Clean.jpg" height="320" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refreshed Optional Gauges</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I am pretty happy with how they turned out. </div>
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John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-28968685585945060982014-10-11T16:22:00.001-07:002020-09-21T08:02:47.241-07:00Taking Apart the Instrument Cluster The 1966 Custom Cab instrument cluster is comprised of 4 standard and 2 optional parts that tear down and re-assemble fairly easily. The parts include :<br />
<ol>
<li>Front Bezel - Chrome finished plastic that all pieces attach to and then it is screwed to dash</li>
<li>Primary Gauge Panel - includes the speedometer, Fuel and Temperature gauges</li>
<li>Lens - has the white lettering for each of the gauges</li>
<li>Two front gauge rings - one each for the Fuel and the Temperature gauge</li>
<li>Two optional gauges (ALT/OIL Pressure)</li>
</ol>
Removing the primary gauge panel is very straight forward. Laying the cluster face down on a soft suface, remove the 7 screws from the back of the panel with a phillips head screwdriver. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaVQ2VkImg1IK6DfLX_dxDbQArhgkV7jHTiRjLk7DZk_mPLnPFxXJshdbYfyoj7TbKlg-Nc8I2Ww5Or5OKf_kmi5qFVNmJWu4yo547aG0X5mW2y7zJ2zYYG8bYmEDtH9CyK5luGEAOW6I/s1600/Bezel+003+Back+of+Cluster+Screws+Tagged.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaVQ2VkImg1IK6DfLX_dxDbQArhgkV7jHTiRjLk7DZk_mPLnPFxXJshdbYfyoj7TbKlg-Nc8I2Ww5Or5OKf_kmi5qFVNmJWu4yo547aG0X5mW2y7zJ2zYYG8bYmEDtH9CyK5luGEAOW6I/s1600/Bezel+003+Back+of+Cluster+Screws+Tagged.jpg" height="131" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Location of gauge panel screws</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Gently lift up the panel revealing the plastic lens and lay the panel aside. The Lens is just laying in the bezel so lift up using the edges to keep from leaving finger prints on the lens. This leaves the two optional gauges in the bezel. To remove them, first take off the wire retaining nuts and split washers if you haven't already. The gauges are held in place by two additional nuts on the same gauge posts as the wiring but tightened to hold the housing against the bezel.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjcu65YvtrwfnaWTKv3hCK2huOgU-VAPQxc_duDI2VNJjQLJOHPpyGwQg0kCko8LGUTrlNK-33bOpxxjJ7FyIk1coHu0tG3Hz8c0_1gDPwcqHvCP2pUL-Jm3q2eZDeLVpfHI93PDnQrOY/s1600/ALT+from+rear+mounted+tagged+Bezel+025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjcu65YvtrwfnaWTKv3hCK2huOgU-VAPQxc_duDI2VNJjQLJOHPpyGwQg0kCko8LGUTrlNK-33bOpxxjJ7FyIk1coHu0tG3Hz8c0_1gDPwcqHvCP2pUL-Jm3q2eZDeLVpfHI93PDnQrOY/s1600/ALT+from+rear+mounted+tagged+Bezel+025.jpg" height="400" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Optional Gauge Mounted on Bezel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With a 3/8" wrench remove the housing retaining nuts which release the gauge through the front of the bezel and the gauge housing on the rear. Both the gauge and housing should drop away but may need a little wiggling or pressure after sitting in place for 50 years. The gauge itself comes out the front of the bezel while the gauge housing comes off the back. Repeat for the other optional gauge and this should leave the bezel as a single piece of plastic.John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-69167524019066999532014-10-11T11:33:00.000-07:002015-08-19T23:18:47.855-07:00Argent Shadows For The Bezel The new parts that I will use for the replacement instrument bezel will need to be painted to duplicate the details of the original bezel. In 1966, Ford applied argent paint to any inner surface of the instrument cluster to reduce the glare from the dashboard lights at nights. The reproduced versions (as well as the re-chromed versions) do not have this detail element so we will add the argent to both the bezel and the gauge rings.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQrbM7zzKK3TzH1VkNlTywPXkMWdSQOus_6X_zqyagJvQ5U9iwg8z1XwCG-hpyendqISTU9O5je944K34xA_2g6YcektyeOwmdNJRKMvFFBZzHjZRoF40vpITw99oDlXVdwkEamybs5Tk/s1600/argent+faced+Bezel+-+original+008+arrows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQrbM7zzKK3TzH1VkNlTywPXkMWdSQOus_6X_zqyagJvQ5U9iwg8z1XwCG-hpyendqISTU9O5je944K34xA_2g6YcektyeOwmdNJRKMvFFBZzHjZRoF40vpITw99oDlXVdwkEamybs5Tk/s1600/argent+faced+Bezel+-+original+008+arrows.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original bezel showing argent colored surfaces</td></tr>
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<div>
The reproduced bezel from Dennis Carpenter comes with all surfaces chromed. People on the FE forum also report when they have their original bezels re-chromed they come back with all surfaces chrome.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIWr592FLip9egUZVHPtIElPa-RsJ-N9P0UPQFsYU5hos8KL4Eh9LCZmekgAA5XJ6sASXpmzRGdVMYC7H0MyRht_NGe637l009Jr4IijZKCKPA3eoK7vEUAaW2Bv0Da5EsLXA_qUMR6QQ/s1600/Reproduced+tagged.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIWr592FLip9egUZVHPtIElPa-RsJ-N9P0UPQFsYU5hos8KL4Eh9LCZmekgAA5XJ6sASXpmzRGdVMYC7H0MyRht_NGe637l009Jr4IijZKCKPA3eoK7vEUAaW2Bv0Da5EsLXA_qUMR6QQ/s1600/Reproduced+tagged.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reproduced bezel showing chrome colored surfaces</td></tr>
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So, first I will need to remove the gauge rings from the lens and then mask off the parts I want to keep chrome with blue tape. <br />
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The gauge rings are attached to the lens by 3 round posts that are inserted into 3 holes in the lens with the ends of the posts then melted to hold in place. To remove I used my fingernails to break off the melted part of the post and then gently pulled the ring from the face of the lens. I did this same procedure for both rings.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBxwMubM9KsCjdBL7b0D0hyphenhyphenKmE5XllRjH8S5ETXSbexKIAT7X-IK0KnHZ8hSg5Ypjq33QSzVWY01Vg1nkvbhrsyxhyphenhyphenIMUuoZe7g_St4bgOXNhzcQjupoIRPqKDYjFQS8SpQhNFyqtKKaM/s1600/Lens+New+w-Rings+Bezel+036a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="108" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBxwMubM9KsCjdBL7b0D0hyphenhyphenKmE5XllRjH8S5ETXSbexKIAT7X-IK0KnHZ8hSg5Ypjq33QSzVWY01Vg1nkvbhrsyxhyphenhyphenIMUuoZe7g_St4bgOXNhzcQjupoIRPqKDYjFQS8SpQhNFyqtKKaM/s1600/Lens+New+w-Rings+Bezel+036a.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Lens with Gauge Rings</td></tr>
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I will paint both of the inner gauge rings and then do the same for the bezel. After wrapping with blue tape, I used an exacto knife to cut the tape to cover only the areas I want to stay chrome and cover the remainder of the bezel with newspaper to protect the chrome finish. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeIMrmUuKpqiLKW3G6D9M9noa14RiafVztxuw3yEfWEUrONBuuzxlHabTVoM8CtGH7s8jZlPIZbkoY8Vn9P8xfWg-YV8g-fE3yAqnmWBjN9nS3WBxf2qf2-TSuJ6e2R8nC2_Y5LPya3ks/s1600/Painting+Rings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeIMrmUuKpqiLKW3G6D9M9noa14RiafVztxuw3yEfWEUrONBuuzxlHabTVoM8CtGH7s8jZlPIZbkoY8Vn9P8xfWg-YV8g-fE3yAqnmWBjN9nS3WBxf2qf2-TSuJ6e2R8nC2_Y5LPya3ks/s1600/Painting+Rings.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I used my usual <b>VHT SP-188</b> for the Ford argent, this color is not to glossy but is not totally flat like primer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUVziAfDkYzwLtdRbTWHg59qfGQzmeNXrGeZoRMBMz4OZtQfRsmeS_3nId5SdlKM2ZXl1m5WAGAxEvfHsqHXpeWS-1HFvuegpuSeWgTk1zkEMvAasM2dOhKUg2G9x6uSWIkS3N56kBJQ/s1600/Masked+Bezel2+008a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUVziAfDkYzwLtdRbTWHg59qfGQzmeNXrGeZoRMBMz4OZtQfRsmeS_3nId5SdlKM2ZXl1m5WAGAxEvfHsqHXpeWS-1HFvuegpuSeWgTk1zkEMvAasM2dOhKUg2G9x6uSWIkS3N56kBJQ/s1600/Masked+Bezel2+008a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Qs3cUdc553N7tUAKw3kUeDxEX9YyQg1TEVnfHDf4um4mKoxlYOlHUfu1HxXtmWG8qQ37kxuPN3sv-nOd7ud6uWwFxzDRKjHLbqLFI-GbYdeCsz79NbY87M3qneAdn7h2E4cvG3ochcQ/s1600/Masked+Bezel2+009a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Qs3cUdc553N7tUAKw3kUeDxEX9YyQg1TEVnfHDf4um4mKoxlYOlHUfu1HxXtmWG8qQ37kxuPN3sv-nOd7ud6uWwFxzDRKjHLbqLFI-GbYdeCsz79NbY87M3qneAdn7h2E4cvG3ochcQ/s1600/Masked+Bezel2+009a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I carefully applied two light coats of the Ford argent to the bezel inner face, letting each coat dry before adding the next. I did not sand or buff in any way as the paint was looking smooth over the chrome and I did not want to mess up an acceptable accent to the new bezel.<br />
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While the paint is drying I will take a look at the optional gauges and see what can be done to freshen them up a bit.<br />
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John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-2814029994720723882014-10-10T21:41:00.000-07:002014-10-20T12:39:58.254-07:00The Reproduced Bezel ArrivesThe reproduced bezel took a week to come and upon inspection I noticed a few differences from the original.<br />
<ol>
<li>The flat argent on the inside of the viewports was as expected ... not there. It was painted the same shiny chrome finish as the rest of the Bezel.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhComFavvoE8V3IPB-9nZObEyIkPVW1H6NO3LmIkuQMO24B-2OXG86tMGdLjAPoJFlDb64I1bJPBcGypyoa6YrUtKyuK2865xMQewTyvfwsSv6WMGpyRQCv-RuavtqWKXMuaARxF_tXi6I/s1600/Finish+Compared+Bezel+039a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhComFavvoE8V3IPB-9nZObEyIkPVW1H6NO3LmIkuQMO24B-2OXG86tMGdLjAPoJFlDb64I1bJPBcGypyoa6YrUtKyuK2865xMQewTyvfwsSv6WMGpyRQCv-RuavtqWKXMuaARxF_tXi6I/s1600/Finish+Compared+Bezel+039a.jpg" height="141" width="400" /></a></div>
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</li>
<li>The lettering on the lens was in a different font than the original. Is flat and fat compared to original equipment manufactured by FoCo. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Ee821viMffxfI-iLcJ2Aq4OYhrvx6iI-1mYoTHUTCkbpmGGyiyr-UNrIqPZrr1GhCEoj1DnvZB6yV1lZSwnvt5u9A8ywhM1yYNtPG2iJ4WanLUZ9pdCEmJLbaBcf7xSOjJ6xiyl0zlQ/s1600/Font+Diff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Ee821viMffxfI-iLcJ2Aq4OYhrvx6iI-1mYoTHUTCkbpmGGyiyr-UNrIqPZrr1GhCEoj1DnvZB6yV1lZSwnvt5u9A8ywhM1yYNtPG2iJ4WanLUZ9pdCEmJLbaBcf7xSOjJ6xiyl0zlQ/s1600/Font+Diff.jpg" height="249" width="320" /></a></div>
</li>
<li>The holding tabs for the chromed frames for the FUEL and TEMP were not in the same position as the originals.There are 3 tabs holding each of the rings on the lens. The bottom tab of the reproduced set is placed 1/16" lower on the ring. </li>
<li>The M in the lettering for 'TEMP' was smudged and messed up ..Overall manufacturing quality of the bezel as well as the lens was less than the OEM.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdcC-SO1vA32JY1lx1du9BsgZTiIGHhQxRSvkWzyHv4Dxo52ZU6YL-oc-odD3at7MsCtrn04bmg1jS97my2g3Zln-vV3SMWE96gU3AoxuYXgd2XK0vqQBHN1myv7jTHmVtDGd7VZeSy8/s1600/Mask+Quality+TEMP+Bezel+035a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzdcC-SO1vA32JY1lx1du9BsgZTiIGHhQxRSvkWzyHv4Dxo52ZU6YL-oc-odD3at7MsCtrn04bmg1jS97my2g3Zln-vV3SMWE96gU3AoxuYXgd2XK0vqQBHN1myv7jTHmVtDGd7VZeSy8/s1600/Mask+Quality+TEMP+Bezel+035a.jpg" height="320" width="276" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mask Quality of Reproduced Lens</td></tr>
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</li>
</ol>
Other than these items the chrome finish was bright and beautiful and a much better finish than I got with the chrome colored rattle can stuff. So, I think the plan for refreshing Old Blues Instrument Cluster will be a mix of the new parts and the old parts to retain as much of the vintage elements as possible. Tasks include:<br />
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<ol>
<li>Clean old plastic lens and use with new bezel</li>
<li>Clean both optional gauges (Alt and Oil Pressure) - Chrome polish outer rings, buff plastic lens, paint needle</li>
<li>Use the new chrome rings mounted on the old lens for standard gauges (Fuel & Temp), paint the inner face of rings Ford argent</li>
<li>Paint the new bezel's inner face Ford argent </li>
<li>Paint needles of speedometer and standard gauges fluorescent red.</li>
</ol>
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John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-5561091392037030172014-10-07T21:25:00.000-07:002014-10-16T08:53:38.385-07:00Painting the Original Cluster with Krylon Chrome <br />
While I was waiting for the repro bezel to ship, I went ahead and painted the old bezel with some rattle can chrome. I had removed the gauges, lens and optional parts and decided to retain the argent as it was in pretty good shape.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMbvfhnhsW7zgX-Q4HPBatbIZq5AOQJjYuL_kSvF59Eoj0DfLzHedTURbBVROowHbTH3dXOi3FX8vH5Q2q-ZKx1Ko_BK_l90iy2xSF92ytTT-b_inBFXg5kgffqEH_DKGiWwg15fPeW4I/s1600/Masked+Original+Bezel+033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMbvfhnhsW7zgX-Q4HPBatbIZq5AOQJjYuL_kSvF59Eoj0DfLzHedTURbBVROowHbTH3dXOi3FX8vH5Q2q-ZKx1Ko_BK_l90iy2xSF92ytTT-b_inBFXg5kgffqEH_DKGiWwg15fPeW4I/s1600/Masked+Original+Bezel+033.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Masking the Ford Argent</td></tr>
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Masking off the argent lips was easy and I decided to try Krylon Chrome as it looked to be the shiniest paint on the shelf.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1gqnbAHcTVaT0Zze7hXb6mjYGwg8gL5yZPUYp3HILoOTBRjGmVYYqGpctEdjQQ2yjj_S0leG71-PbECdd8AAI8Eu248LAbfTVnm471Tg0amM79hFf3AV-DlTSPkGmWW0u8Klc8TrSUhY/s1600/Masked+Original+Bezel+031a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1gqnbAHcTVaT0Zze7hXb6mjYGwg8gL5yZPUYp3HILoOTBRjGmVYYqGpctEdjQQ2yjj_S0leG71-PbECdd8AAI8Eu248LAbfTVnm471Tg0amM79hFf3AV-DlTSPkGmWW0u8Klc8TrSUhY/s1600/Masked+Original+Bezel+031a.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Masking the bezel and rings<span style="text-align: start;">.</span></div>
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I started by painting the outer face of the two rings from the lens, masking off the inner argent to retain the semi-gloss gray.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7lHu-X3H5LLQIyUh923k2xkekSmSYIPQVaQ5vItZdR3-878mX1oZ2alasX1-uE8s1b66ruUJpCmpfGTW80hSqRQlWsK5eqfprtJqfQvtHRrOCvXPtkWeb4C73WkKSTv1XVjsp_HZ0F6I/s1600/Paint+and+RIngs+Bezel+030c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7lHu-X3H5LLQIyUh923k2xkekSmSYIPQVaQ5vItZdR3-878mX1oZ2alasX1-uE8s1b66ruUJpCmpfGTW80hSqRQlWsK5eqfprtJqfQvtHRrOCvXPtkWeb4C73WkKSTv1XVjsp_HZ0F6I/s1600/Paint+and+RIngs+Bezel+030c.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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The rings painted up fine though the color was more gloss silver than chrome. </div>
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Now on to the bezel ... I messed up by putting on 2 coats of the Chrome paint. Though very light coats, the paint was thick and the left side was not as crisp as I would have hoped. However the color was much more chrome than the rings and not bad for a paint job. I could still see the tooling patterns on the face and I put the gauges back on to check out the results. </div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikHvVqUi1M5jDvtVvkRxNu0jGzzj_BxTAsPUQSlrZPUR8iV-5NtFMy_9u9FdBBXcfL2qtxuhaR5c4RFpf3oCr1PwwCSdo6Ch1oSQzsS6HaLvbe876_7TuzHumzQNbQi0grNTNbfZ_Jz30/s1600/Painted+Original+Bezel+040a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikHvVqUi1M5jDvtVvkRxNu0jGzzj_BxTAsPUQSlrZPUR8iV-5NtFMy_9u9FdBBXcfL2qtxuhaR5c4RFpf3oCr1PwwCSdo6Ch1oSQzsS6HaLvbe876_7TuzHumzQNbQi0grNTNbfZ_Jz30/s1600/Painted+Original+Bezel+040a.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Painted Bezel</td></tr>
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<div>
It turned out OK but was a far cry from what I was hoping to accomplish. Overall the bezel seemed more silver than chrome, though I was able to retain the soft argent non reflective inner panels. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYsCK7s_6kSJ6xLw4QEGvMbGXt1IGYEPxng5qv9N4Dy1xQId6kbNAXlL5-gOO79rxyTw4di7QqYcpZIP_d87nQob4freYAWqEiqhEcDnWcDrJcMGLNOM6ALeD_GInNgOgx9uA_uJK5ol0/s1600/Painted+Original+Bezel+039a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYsCK7s_6kSJ6xLw4QEGvMbGXt1IGYEPxng5qv9N4Dy1xQId6kbNAXlL5-gOO79rxyTw4di7QqYcpZIP_d87nQob4freYAWqEiqhEcDnWcDrJcMGLNOM6ALeD_GInNgOgx9uA_uJK5ol0/s1600/Painted+Original+Bezel+039a.jpg" height="212" width="640" /></a></div>
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John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-79241731262834012582014-09-28T10:40:00.005-07:002014-10-20T12:39:36.621-07:00What to do about the Instrument Cluster?Old Blue has the original instrument cluster with the appropriate custom cab sweep speedometer on her dash and these days the silver coating is mostly gone from the face of the cluster bezel, replaced by a yellowish plastic finish that needs a refresh.<br />
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<div>
The part in question has been identified by Bill on the FE forums as<br />
" C5TZ10838A .. Instrument Cluster Bezel-Plastic / Original applications: 1965/66 F100/250 2WD Custom Cabs. and they are not made by Ford any longer so replacing with another OEM part is not an option.". He continues "Carpenter has reproduced it, but...It does <b>not</b> come with holes for the optional Oil & Amp gauges. Neither did the original bezel, and just like the original, a hole saw has to be used to cut the holes. Ford only supplied the bezel with Oil/Amp gauges on factory assembled trucks, it could not be purchased at the parts counter."<br />
__________________<br />
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.<br />
<br />
Thanks Bill!<br />
<br />
<b>Options</b><br />
Reading through the comments from the smart boys at the FE forums we have four options for bringing the cluster back to life:<br />
1. Remove and replace with a reproduced one from <a href="http://dennis-carpenter.com/instrument-cluster-bezel-%26-lens/p/c5tz-10876-a/">Dennis Carpenter's</a> for about $150+shipping. Described as "CHROME PLATED PLASTIC BEZEL CLEAR LENS WITH WHITE LETTERS & CHROME PLATED PLASTIC RINGS FOR THE FUEL & TEMP GUAGES". Notice the flat argent (dull silver) paint is missing from the inner side of the rings and border per original. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjni-ZEkNDgi-OjtL5lzdd8dAvxIsM_oVdiT8IYEXXshTBXScpF7iCo4eakEa-6AOamFqVetra-V5eHgkKuyvm5CrX74uwrLLm4ZHlr4u6FSnnozUtrU7lvbxBTJIO56evgVSb1riqaM78/s1600/Reproduced.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjni-ZEkNDgi-OjtL5lzdd8dAvxIsM_oVdiT8IYEXXshTBXScpF7iCo4eakEa-6AOamFqVetra-V5eHgkKuyvm5CrX74uwrLLm4ZHlr4u6FSnnozUtrU7lvbxBTJIO56evgVSb1riqaM78/s1600/Reproduced.jpg" height="160" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;"><br /></span>
2. Remove and replace with one saved from another 1965/66 Custom Cab Ford truck I looked around eBay and craigslist for some current offerings and found the following with a starting price of $129 and 18 watchers waiting to snipe !! It is scratched and in need of refinishing, however, it DOES show the flat argent on the inner surfaces of the rings and bezel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0f7oG7Ui2pXGz3GFnDEMAzoT7vurofXicjt7Ih0n1WHcw4ge98a6mZ9hPxhPSjzA0LSX7XkJldsGdK5H0ceVjYxAAyKhKWffolkcUtbAc6r2JWFDJ-EkRJuKG2eDHsw-gIG4VSncp3X0/s1600/fromoldsample.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0f7oG7Ui2pXGz3GFnDEMAzoT7vurofXicjt7Ih0n1WHcw4ge98a6mZ9hPxhPSjzA0LSX7XkJldsGdK5H0ceVjYxAAyKhKWffolkcUtbAc6r2JWFDJ-EkRJuKG2eDHsw-gIG4VSncp3X0/s1600/fromoldsample.jpg" height="146" width="400" /></a></div>
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3. Remove and send the plastic off to a shop to have a chrome finish applied<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggNolMD6yZde7eAybS93v5YxFh9OXimh6fz-phi2VfdUO06XroktgWbpE8HJF-QYiwkVOInKQnA15dqTTgnZV6myXLiYq8AOeebmV3bhIdj98MhRisaTarlXoJlNYgk79ZwzC2a9FBgd0/s1600/Refinnished.a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggNolMD6yZde7eAybS93v5YxFh9OXimh6fz-phi2VfdUO06XroktgWbpE8HJF-QYiwkVOInKQnA15dqTTgnZV6myXLiYq8AOeebmV3bhIdj98MhRisaTarlXoJlNYgk79ZwzC2a9FBgd0/s1600/Refinnished.a.jpg" height="201" width="400" /></a></div>
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Dave on the FE forums has a 65 F100,and showed us this cluster he had refinnished. Notice the flat argent (dull silver) paint is missing from the inner side of the rings and border per original,.however, surface is bright and tooling crisp! <br />
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4. Remove original and paint with modern chrome paint.<br />
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<b>Considerations: </b><br />
1. The reproduced clusters do not have the (as original) flat argent paint applied. Used on the underside of the surrounding lip to prevent glare at night.They cost about $150 plus shipping at <a href="http://dennis-carpenter.com/instrument-cluster-bezel-%26-lens/p/c5tz-10876-a/">Dennis Carpenters</a>. Would have to apply the flat argent after purchase.<br />
2. Costs are over $100 for refinishing the old, and would still have to apply the flat argent paint to inner surfaces to reduce glare per original. <br />
3. Finding a used OEM that is in better shape than the current bezel on Old Blue would not give me much benefit as I would probably have to refinnish or paint anything I find on Ebay.<br />
4. I am a horrible painter :)<br />
5. Any replacement would need holes drilled for the Alternator and Oil Pressure gauges.<br />
6. I could just leave things as they are and claim 'Its the patina of a 50 year old truck !'<br />
<br />
<b>Decision: </b><br />
<div>
I decided to get a reproduced bezel from DC and will paint the inner lips Ford Argent to match the original bezel. I ordered a reproduction from Dennis Carpenters.<br />
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I should also mention that Old Blue has the additional and custom factory/dealer installed Alternator and Oil Pressure gauges mounted on the bezel and so before doing anything we will need to disconnect the battery. The Alternator gauge is wired inline to everything so we do not want to accidentally short circuit anything.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePX_J6T5opqjC0ioRmKo0_ZRXTwq9kcIntbKluN1s1zC14tiHLq94x4EPF0RU7mF5xhT-_YgfXHJlVexFvd4XR3-PsFpkRF_xUT16IMkrk-FIyNJPpUpq8SNbRUA-DXACbT5JqOpZoDY/s1600/Bezel+007a+ORIGINAL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePX_J6T5opqjC0ioRmKo0_ZRXTwq9kcIntbKluN1s1zC14tiHLq94x4EPF0RU7mF5xhT-_YgfXHJlVexFvd4XR3-PsFpkRF_xUT16IMkrk-FIyNJPpUpq8SNbRUA-DXACbT5JqOpZoDY/s1600/Bezel+007a+ORIGINAL.jpg" height="195" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original Instrument Cluster from Old Blue</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>How to remove the cluster from the dash: </b><br />
<ol>
<li>Take the negative cable off the battery</li>
<li>Unscrew the speedometer cable from the back of the cluster by reaching up behind the dash, it is big and fat and the single screw came off with my fingers. </li>
<li>Remove the four bottom and four top screws from the face of the bezel with a phillips head screw driver. </li>
<li>Pull the top of cluster forward a couple of inches to expose the wires in the back </li>
<li>Start from right and work your way left, taking pictures and labeling wires as needed. My wires had been in place for so long, that even though I took pictures of every one, they stayed right where they had been for the last 50 years [NOTE : Take care with the light bulbs and the three flat slide-on connectors in the middle of the back of the bezel. The light bulbs can be stubborn to pull out and you want to be sure to label each as they all look similar and it will slow down re-installation if you get them mixed up. The 3 flat slide-on connectors only go on one way as all three are different but be sure to take pictures to get them right. Also, the connectors to the custom factory gauges are different than the Fuel and the Temp which have simple round slide on (2 each gauge) and a bulb. For the custom gauges, you will need to remove 2 nuts and a lock washer for each gauge using a 3/8" wrench. Old BLues were very tight but not not require WD-40.] </li>
<li>After working your way to the Alternator (or furthest left gauge), there are two metal braces holding the wrapped harness of the cluster wires on the bottom of the back of the bezel. These are U shaped holders and you should be able to just lift the harness out of the holders to release the bezel. </li>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAewt2p7Aaood1k8BXnsCCxXGp75MRn0QdBHtv0ajAFq8MX6trPa4TmI7L4AOs-Xqo7EAFw44ZJ7YODLJf5odsVf4Ab-JFIvk4Mmtbuh7-Ld-BlQi2X4pC0zh9w_Ib0xN4CYF3J5ocxG8/s1600/Bezel+003+Back+of+Cluster+-+tagged.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAewt2p7Aaood1k8BXnsCCxXGp75MRn0QdBHtv0ajAFq8MX6trPa4TmI7L4AOs-Xqo7EAFw44ZJ7YODLJf5odsVf4Ab-JFIvk4Mmtbuh7-Ld-BlQi2X4pC0zh9w_Ib0xN4CYF3J5ocxG8/s1600/Bezel+003+Back+of+Cluster+-+tagged.jpg" height="192" width="640" /></a><b>Bezel Background: </b></div>
<ol>
</ol>
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<div id="post_message_8822308" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
This is: <b><span style="color: blue;">C5TZ10838A</span></b> .. Instrument Cluster Bezel-Plastic / Original applications: 1965/66 F100/250 2WD Custom Cabs.<br />
<br />
Carpenter has reproduced it, but...It does <b><u>not</u></b> come with holes for the optional Oil & Amp gauges. <span style="font-size: 13px;">Neither did the original bezel, and just like the original, a hole saw has to be used to cut the holes.</span><br />
<br />
Ford only supplied the bezel with Oil/Amp guages on factory assembled trucks, it could not be purchased at the parts counter.<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The bezels come with the optional </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">gauges</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">, no one repro's them. NOS or used are the only alternatives. </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">When these </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">gauges</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">are present, there is a separate </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">wiring harness</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">for them that plugs into the </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">dash harness</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">. How are the </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">aftermarket gauges</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">wired? </span><br />
<br style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The Custom Cab plastic chrome sweep speedo </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">instrument cluster</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">bezel (1965 F100/250 2WD, 1966 </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">F100 4WD</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">) is repro'd, but it does not come with holes for the oil/amp </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">gauges</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">which were an extra cost option.</span><br />
<br style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">When the oil gauge is present, there's a fitting that threads into the block that </span><span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">both</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">the oil </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">warning lamp</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">switch </span><i style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">and</i><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">the </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">oil pressure switch</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">thread into.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"></span><br />
<b style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: blue;">C5TZ-9273-A</span></b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">.. </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Oil Pressure Gauge</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">/ Obsolete </span><br />
<br style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" />
<b style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: blue;">C5TZ-10850-A</span></b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"> .. Ammeter Gauge / Obsolete </span><br />
__________<br />
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.</div>
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John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-89291889821205085722014-07-14T10:06:00.000-07:002014-09-25T14:35:12.656-07:00First AnniversaryIt has been 1 year since Old Blue rolled off that Auto Transport out in front of Casa and the kids and I are feeling pretty good about the level of stewardship we have committed to the 1966 Ford F-250 <i>Camper Special</i>.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dz4IHnsnsLnHjTZnyPKD2Ol990to0OWMEXHf3blsdF27vhBrQ8ZNYBaRglwVgxe3VuGIQed3bDBuiNKQp0Z-w' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<b><i>All the 'Cool Truck' comments</i></b><br />
Without fail, when we drive Old Blue we get comments and horn beeps from admirers of the blue and white '66 Slick. Many people stop to talk about similar trucks they owned in the past, or that their parents or some other relative had owned something similar. Sometimes they talk about their memories of driving around in an old truck and share something special to them. The kids and I never know what to expect when we pull into a gas station, a grocery store, or even just stop at a red light. People respond to the classic lines and paint scheme in a way that harkens to days past, when communications were simple and it was OK to show true emotions to strangers.<br />
<br />
The truck touches something in young and old people alike. We are often asked about what year it is; and have taken to responding with 'Take a guess' ! It is amusing to hear younger kids think this old steel monster came from the 80's or 90's !!! When they hear it is from 1966 they are surprised and amazed it looks 'so new' for a 50 year old truck.<br />
<br />
We have settled many a bet between people - couples guessing what year it is while driving down the road, when they pull up beside us at a light or stop sign and calls out "Is that a '65?" When we answer there are smiles and whoops and more stories about how one or the other made their guess.<br />
<br />
<b><i>Lessons Learned </i></b><br />
Driving Old Blue around town opens doors to many areas of interest for us. I listen to the kids talking when we are cruising and I think they get a sense of how she reflects the golden age of american manufacturing, her place in the evolution of automotive engineering, and even problem solving strategies - all unexpected benefits of taking on the stewardship of the vehicle.<br />
<br />
My youngest son immediately recognized the difference in analog technology versus digital and comments frequently how Old Blue runs and displays information just like his mothers Honda but without any computers. This often leads to discussions on how automotive engineers from the past could create sensors and circuits to communicate data to the drivers of these old autos with NO digital processing available to them. Our trips to school in the morning, when not focusing on vocabulary words or math functions typically include some discussion about 'Fuel/Fire/Air' translating into simple physics perspectives of torque, power, motion - we stay away from talking about collisions except to note that 2 tons of heavy american metal is no match for the plastic in cars built today!<br />
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<br />John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-4295698189944370362014-04-19T13:54:00.000-07:002014-07-19T12:42:40.521-07:00The License Plate Light While painting the back bumper I had noticed that the license plate light was not working. I did not know if it was the bulb, the housing or the wiring but today I decided it was time to find out and keep Old Blue legal for night time cruising.<br />
<br />
I started by taking a close look at the housing as in order to get to the bulb I would have to disassemble it. There was a single small screw to lift up the top of the frame and the heavily painted bulb cover. I could not get the screw loose as it was rusted and when I looked to take the complete housing off the bumper to make disassembly a little easier I saw that the two small bolts and nuts were also heavily rusted. I shot all 3 with WD-40 and let sit over night.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVRxU5jOABoD6zCOzouV2fvcp5S5RUdMJTgXi1VD_eH1tVOPsObiPCWhPE418-m92dFXI8GI1mKSEutjc0aZchU3tKApxiaNsQm5BXaZbqAFJdFZPWvFFijbKJmks6rP3FRQ8ytSB8R08/s1600/License+Plate+Light+Closeup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVRxU5jOABoD6zCOzouV2fvcp5S5RUdMJTgXi1VD_eH1tVOPsObiPCWhPE418-m92dFXI8GI1mKSEutjc0aZchU3tKApxiaNsQm5BXaZbqAFJdFZPWvFFijbKJmks6rP3FRQ8ytSB8R08/s1600/License+Plate+Light+Closeup.jpg" height="227" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The light behind protective bar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The next day the nuts, bolts and screw were just as tight. I took a closer look at the setup and decided to find out more about the light housing and the bulb. The housing had been painted over 3 or four times in silver paint and then had rusted over the last 50 years so it was a mess - maybe it made more sense to just cut the whole thing off the bumper and buy a new one?<br />
<br />
A quick search through the FORD F-250 Manuals showed me the part number was "C3AZ-13550-1157" and that this part was identified as a alternate for the round button shaped license plate lights used on trucks sold with rear bumpers and identified as the correct light for 'bumperless' trucks.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMkwy4aKzUFOc1jMXcYJu4fLilRhUqp_RMQmtBdFzfGrED3ZvGmcQSKyVc1Z-D-QtjlObnEFbWb8q3KyYKTrIK-kVR5kgFs-Dlb1Z8rxbSs0r8BWDVXFMqLUyVH9RyaSauKn31lCkDd9s/s1600/back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMkwy4aKzUFOc1jMXcYJu4fLilRhUqp_RMQmtBdFzfGrED3ZvGmcQSKyVc1Z-D-QtjlObnEFbWb8q3KyYKTrIK-kVR5kgFs-Dlb1Z8rxbSs0r8BWDVXFMqLUyVH9RyaSauKn31lCkDd9s/s1600/back.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw2zoZc9ZcV3e92gX6R-Y3egGXOaf6uXWQ5akrBvw0FHewznFKq6XDTMvG4DS7eVnJ0m0Lq62_DNLB6kngOXJ9FvxPP1p-1QZahpKujCPWgejvfBNf0JmALyuq4uuciGgdBKQLEr8x_yU/s1600/front.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw2zoZc9ZcV3e92gX6R-Y3egGXOaf6uXWQ5akrBvw0FHewznFKq6XDTMvG4DS7eVnJ0m0Lq62_DNLB6kngOXJ9FvxPP1p-1QZahpKujCPWgejvfBNf0JmALyuq4uuciGgdBKQLEr8x_yU/s1600/front.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original Lamp Housing</td></tr>
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We know Old Blue has an aftermarket bumper as FORD did not offer a step bumper in 1966, so the part looked correct. Searching on EBAY I found a used one for $29.99 + $19.55 shipping (WOW!) that would be $50.00 for a replacement!<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAYVJt7spEOovUj2hM9OKY098XL0P3YnJcfWmzY5iOkGm4vpn4ocLaJ8fxjKBp7Mt-fGWcP2TM3kyLCm6Pjo8RMLGK6JjgK7a8mjYPXoAiVcCcD9gXfyKixuewifM7F0LUG9CTy_RxWk4/s1600/taillightsSmall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAYVJt7spEOovUj2hM9OKY098XL0P3YnJcfWmzY5iOkGm4vpn4ocLaJ8fxjKBp7Mt-fGWcP2TM3kyLCm6Pjo8RMLGK6JjgK7a8mjYPXoAiVcCcD9gXfyKixuewifM7F0LUG9CTy_RxWk4/s1600/taillightsSmall.jpg" height="320" width="280" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From http://www.fordification.com/.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I decided to search on the part number number and found that 65 Mustangs, Rancheros, Falcons all had used the same housing but with a substantially shorter cable. I found one on EBAY for about $18 with shipping. I guess I could use this for Old Blue with a few modifications but decided I would try to salvage the rusted, painted one currently on the old truck. <br />
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Rollling under the back bumper I put a socket wrench on the old nuts holding the light housing to the back bumper and gave it a good twist .... the bolt snapped in half just behind the nut ,,,hmmm .. that worked out O.K. will the other do the same? I tried the second bolt and yep, it also snapped in half right behind the nut. I grabbed a punch and a hammer and gave the remainder of the bolt a soft whack and it pushed through the bumper and the housing and dropped the ground near my legs, the same for the other bolt and after 50 years the light housing was loose from the bumper. I firmly grabbed the housing and using the largest screw driver I had I carefully unscrewed the single screw holding the glass bracket to the housing. As the screw backed out the glass bulb cover fell into my hands along with the remainder of the bulb. The bulb was almost nonexisitent having fallen to bits over the years. I laid the glass shade aside and dropped the glass bracket into a jar of Phosphoric Acid for an overnight soak. I took a closer look at the bulb and noticed it was labeled with 83, so later that night I took a ride over to the local Autozone, O'reilly's and Napa stores. None of these stores had type 83 bulbs so I wondered if this was the right bulb for the 12v system on Old Blue or had this been a just in time replacement ?<br />
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While sitting in the parking lot of the Napa store I googled for the part number 13550 and found a conversion table at the <a href="http://fordification.com/">fordification.com</a><a href="http://www.fordification.com/partnos/bulbs-mini.htm"> </a>website. Here I found the recommendation to use Industry number bulb 97 which replaced the FORD part no. C3AZ-13466-G. I went inside and bought 2 type 97's for about $5.<br />
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Having pulled the glass holding bracket and glass bulb cover I took a closer look at the light fixture. It had a single cable coming from somewhere behind the bumper that ran through a waterproof plastic holder, through the metal mounting clip through another plastic washer terminating with a brass cover. The parts were all rusted and covered in dirt.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9TWdb71ZT8SGp3sbggc0b63Nt2f6PlU2PQwg4ZOADHJl1Bm4XiZeRlvttdQ4RSJlB0qV14iB8KpjYHVCmgqFHQy3w2OJUV3FueZzUlF5aolaeMJ-SNuLHY7DJlgnFEt1TZEhYAFM3OY/s1600/License+Plate+Light+008c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9TWdb71ZT8SGp3sbggc0b63Nt2f6PlU2PQwg4ZOADHJl1Bm4XiZeRlvttdQ4RSJlB0qV14iB8KpjYHVCmgqFHQy3w2OJUV3FueZzUlF5aolaeMJ-SNuLHY7DJlgnFEt1TZEhYAFM3OY/s1600/License+Plate+Light+008c.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back plate with power feed</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQoIGL45WlxKLY3ZjUF9eVnDfSA3VS28mYNn5ZWWBRZ9fF79wUTv3zTmV2SRsNnbCNwisOSbHT-OtuULfmdJIRs41toDkF7Unv1O70H4AV3tvI9Zdpu4S2JRI6B4k5TGsX4WG-TYKxSFw/s1600/License+Plate+Light+004a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQoIGL45WlxKLY3ZjUF9eVnDfSA3VS28mYNn5ZWWBRZ9fF79wUTv3zTmV2SRsNnbCNwisOSbHT-OtuULfmdJIRs41toDkF7Unv1O70H4AV3tvI9Zdpu4S2JRI6B4k5TGsX4WG-TYKxSFw/s1600/License+Plate+Light+004a.jpg" height="115" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back plate with bulb removed</td></tr>
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The back plate had a rubber gasket to keep the water out which I removed because it had deteriorated over the years.I cut out a new one from some old rubber inner tube I had laying around and replaced the bulb with a Type 97.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuetZ2xq8-E0kRAPwhyphenhyphenUgTaja3elyCBBtZrG82lIG1_XqhNXdSHtTFaeW8j1eH0-c0hfzXxaX0nkQt3MvgDMChdBWg2g5lHeWY57dQIhisHC5JDIYTskxVG_olQmAzXIB5tEnNdfYXdic/s1600/License+Plate+Light+012b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuetZ2xq8-E0kRAPwhyphenhyphenUgTaja3elyCBBtZrG82lIG1_XqhNXdSHtTFaeW8j1eH0-c0hfzXxaX0nkQt3MvgDMChdBWg2g5lHeWY57dQIhisHC5JDIYTskxVG_olQmAzXIB5tEnNdfYXdic/s1600/License+Plate+Light+012b.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Gasket </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I buffed the glass lamp cover and the outer frame and found a couple of bolts, locking washers and nuts to remount the assembly.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb2kxUCG-GZ2CMZEMhLQMRHIkAuIG7vB8wP1ckU01AZUc7ApvE8u0Mi2jDdUQtnM1nwFPhGwzpHqeTXziufwCGQ5tmGmEz0hdnV6m00ca7y6q4Jp3dGz7Z2rh9Ry1ui_49Q2T2LJHEZQY/s1600/License+Plate+Light+017b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb2kxUCG-GZ2CMZEMhLQMRHIkAuIG7vB8wP1ckU01AZUc7ApvE8u0Mi2jDdUQtnM1nwFPhGwzpHqeTXziufwCGQ5tmGmEz0hdnV6m00ca7y6q4Jp3dGz7Z2rh9Ry1ui_49Q2T2LJHEZQY/s1600/License+Plate+Light+017b.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready for Re-Assembly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Remounting was straight forward and when It was complete I fired up Old Blue, turned on the lights and ran back to take a look at my handy work - OH NO .. the light did not work.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI92dIe5Zk1AO88K53yjpM_3VXivfpOxEUoU5M5lNatMu-OlpIvKgYS2OckP3f1_to9LDrDHcQgjshcbvaA925gyHXxG67CKzs20ErjfPFC791C1j9lEJ7Z2FSLsLMRxaBlD-bYWe9zeE/s1600/License+Plate+Light+020b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI92dIe5Zk1AO88K53yjpM_3VXivfpOxEUoU5M5lNatMu-OlpIvKgYS2OckP3f1_to9LDrDHcQgjshcbvaA925gyHXxG67CKzs20ErjfPFC791C1j9lEJ7Z2FSLsLMRxaBlD-bYWe9zeE/s1600/License+Plate+Light+020b.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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After shutting down the engine and turning off the lights I rolled under the back bumper and followed the wire from the light assembly back to the connector plug into the wiring harness just as the wiring diagram had indicated. The cable had been extended so the bumper could be moved out under the old camper that Uncle Ken used to have. The wiring looked fine with no breaks so I pulled the harness connector plug and sanded the connector shiny, and reinserted it.<br />
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I fired up the engine again, turned on the lights and ran back to take a look.and PRESTO! the light was shining bright! Job Done.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju9J8TQhiBhNCLF7vYjOz7gikKA7vc0vpaIMw4Ya34zSZZlBN8QMbtpZnMiqJRQ7e-XfzRfKhoEXC0aqCjels7kzo8ZOdAmI_4xL75H5Uq6vl06UKccpl_JSXK2WsWXsDrYtpsM4FWx3k/s1600/License+Plate+Light+021b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju9J8TQhiBhNCLF7vYjOz7gikKA7vc0vpaIMw4Ya34zSZZlBN8QMbtpZnMiqJRQ7e-XfzRfKhoEXC0aqCjels7kzo8ZOdAmI_4xL75H5Uq6vl06UKccpl_JSXK2WsWXsDrYtpsM4FWx3k/s1600/License+Plate+Light+021b.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working License Plate Lamp</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_rVdBfOD6RpZgmzRKUG1DkVS5nuImNRIBRUUnihrgNu_QNksZp6DaRBj6cWOTsNufwRvcFNGLqvT0JeIn_udPt7qovmPt50DhEsaF70z-dgtb0e_UA1Mnmew4jFON2Bdl59qThUVL54/s1600/License+Plate+Light+025a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0_rVdBfOD6RpZgmzRKUG1DkVS5nuImNRIBRUUnihrgNu_QNksZp6DaRBj6cWOTsNufwRvcFNGLqvT0JeIn_udPt7qovmPt50DhEsaF70z-dgtb0e_UA1Mnmew4jFON2Bdl59qThUVL54/s1600/License+Plate+Light+025a.jpg" height="532" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15.199999809265137px; line-height: 16.631999969482422px;">[This document shows how to remove the rear license plate housing and replace the bulb on a Ford F250 Truck]</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjElSmAYbEoZnvXWlYFqJcgbH_dZYhG9JpRXFiLXJMUhxPTKTPzNYJNUO10RHMbP-DfEM7JJRIrAF5qubp9PJO_h8LWNdqjZWQf7OkPfU1YMhRT9EVTadIckNlaMQwsiIb15UuBH5vReFE/s1600/WiperSwitch+002a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjElSmAYbEoZnvXWlYFqJcgbH_dZYhG9JpRXFiLXJMUhxPTKTPzNYJNUO10RHMbP-DfEM7JJRIrAF5qubp9PJO_h8LWNdqjZWQf7OkPfU1YMhRT9EVTadIckNlaMQwsiIb15UuBH5vReFE/s1600/WiperSwitch+002a.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1966 F250 Camper Special Wiper Switch</td></tr>
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Checking around the web I find some additional info regarding the '66 Ford Truck setup. Some '66's have the windshield washer switch integral with the wiper switch. Some (if equipped) have a separate push button washer switch above the ignition switch. Some have a foot activated floor mounted pump.<br />
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In 1966 both single & two speed wipers were available. If you can only turn the wiper switch one 'click' you have the Single Speed switch. If you can turn the switch twice it is a two speed switch. Old Blue has a 2-speed switch and pulls out which should control the washer function. However, Old Blue ALSO has the push button above the ignition key and it is wired to the the washer motor through the firewall but not grounded. I will have to check this out someday.<br />
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<b>Removal:</b><br />
It took a while to figure out how to remove the switch from the dash. Once you get it the procedure is quite simple, as follows:<br />
1. Remove Knob : This is done by pushing a small screwdriver into the slot at the base of the knob, releasing the metal catch inside from the groove on the switch post and pulling knob gently off post. It took me a few times to feel the metal catch inside the knob with the screwdriver and to figure out how much pressure to apply (not much is needed) and when the latch slips the knob easily pulls off the post.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8BOg9xhpuh_QoMilmL0dwegQtY7WQd8OyOOTUAm6BWcztZGQkMoA91OvjjWcRFQwPGeR273BXcRm0jqlhTCPhMxV1ezo_ktAg-Svoxgq7Q_Zr5kAV8gHWqOSpNyMgDXMwVU3upy5vT_U/s1600/WiperSwitch+003a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8BOg9xhpuh_QoMilmL0dwegQtY7WQd8OyOOTUAm6BWcztZGQkMoA91OvjjWcRFQwPGeR273BXcRm0jqlhTCPhMxV1ezo_ktAg-Svoxgq7Q_Zr5kAV8gHWqOSpNyMgDXMwVU3upy5vT_U/s1600/WiperSwitch+003a.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slot to release catch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4vSxhMvawJL4_VxBXDjXW9rixNkdHsDRybzsGPp-zKoFUnI5qFuok7nYQbBt_iBksAx2r8zfFP9HD9ECL3Exw_FkgRzq1HJjod9VjoN1Fl-tb2-jxLaFoovpAenl8TznXCih5zTiwnC8/s1600/WiperSwitch+004a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4vSxhMvawJL4_VxBXDjXW9rixNkdHsDRybzsGPp-zKoFUnI5qFuok7nYQbBt_iBksAx2r8zfFP9HD9ECL3Exw_FkgRzq1HJjod9VjoN1Fl-tb2-jxLaFoovpAenl8TznXCih5zTiwnC8/s1600/WiperSwitch+004a.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'D' shaped pressure catch inside knob</td></tr>
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This same knob is used for other controls on the dashboard; I practiced with the heater control because it was easier to get to until I figured out where and how much pressure was required to release knob from the post.<br />
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2. Remove Bezel nut: I decided to remove the switch from the dash and then get underneath the dash to remove the wiring. the switch is seated in the dash by a simple slotted screw. I took a large flat screw driver and gently pushed counter clockwise on the slots - the screw spun right off.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVRNJVGYpu_d1rGMSoEe_XVokdwIekJoIpXbJlLqigOoTHJl9gXWr0LXymeS9YoEw28sHpp7lv0uGVYvqXbKBAYCGDlG205qBkxF29aJEhncNiIKmN_3POoYVro9GAMmZUdItdL4P76A/s1600/WiperSwitch+006a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRVRNJVGYpu_d1rGMSoEe_XVokdwIekJoIpXbJlLqigOoTHJl9gXWr0LXymeS9YoEw28sHpp7lv0uGVYvqXbKBAYCGDlG205qBkxF29aJEhncNiIKmN_3POoYVro9GAMmZUdItdL4P76A/s1600/WiperSwitch+006a.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wiper switch bezel and retaining nut</td></tr>
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The silver bezel marked 'Wiper' just lifted off the post and underneath the Wimbledon White paint was unfaded or marred. I could just imagine what Old Blue's dash looked like when she came off the assembly line.<br />
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I reached my hand up under the dash and gently pulled the switch and connected wires down a little so I could take a look at how they were attached.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuO20xFOvMwbZOOBegpYsV2S7JOsUzGDmxxSfASXNQISnOlpm8IFnaRJWdCtOb24gkrkSCL8HzQlC7NiJ3aRi-mgCx3KsLJDuL93h6rCkEpoFSnujmMOjDKRMAzorhtDQyF8QJIsHtzi8/s1600/WiperSwitch+015c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuO20xFOvMwbZOOBegpYsV2S7JOsUzGDmxxSfASXNQISnOlpm8IFnaRJWdCtOb24gkrkSCL8HzQlC7NiJ3aRi-mgCx3KsLJDuL93h6rCkEpoFSnujmMOjDKRMAzorhtDQyF8QJIsHtzi8/s1600/WiperSwitch+015c.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see the 'gap' between the female connector and the switch housing</td></tr>
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There are 5 wires connected to the switch and after looking carefully I notice the black parts are a male-female connector.<br />
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I gently encouraged (with my flat head screwdriver) the male connector out, turning the switch to expose three different leverage points and applying minimal pressure to each to move the parts (I was worried I might break the old, brittle plastic bits) until the switch fell lightly into my hand.<br />
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Turning it over I noticed how grungy and dirty it was and that the female wiring connector was loose from the switch housing. Leaving a gap along one side about 1/8" wide which I could close by pressing the wiring connector against the housing. It sprung back when I released the pressure. Hmmmmmmmm<br />
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Holding the switch in my hand, I could turn the post from left to right and back, feeling the two clicks but I noticed that when I pushed the connector against the housing the clicks were solid and when I let the pressure off the connector allowing it to 'gap' and then turned the post the clicks were almost non-existent.<br />
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<b>Cleaning:</b><br />
I shot the switch through the 'gap' between the housing and the connector with electrical contact cleaning fluid, worked the switch back and forth a few times and then repeated multiple times. I let it dry and then with a damp cloth wiped all the gook and dirt off the exterior of the switch. Moving the post again, the switch was moved much more freely now ...<br />
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While I had the knob off the post I thought I would figure out how to clean it. These knobs on Old Blue are ALL caked with a white substance that fills the grooves in the knob (see in pics above) and I have tried various cleaning products and brushes to get this stuff off the knobs but nothing seems to work very well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyWGD4HE905srgmCRBsXCAseZ9FN4zaMUdxBYJ2LWlWxYYUJFaoou4bWgBzjKVEM3bts6OIKo0YAfWhtqcQ2SRXcolIuIFINc0NXxJRw90ttFwfEq6O16rnVj8gl3n3_71gKgZZyxKE5Q/s1600/WiperSwitch+019a.jpg" height="320" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="240" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Electrical Contact Cleaning Fluid </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5HVjX8bAC_2b2xBYRGveCc_A53nPk6HxMG2622BrILp1xixpD4QwoXcHZu_Eb9qk7WFZNaslmQG1K7oOo54EC7TJOWWar3esE_DIKmea1dqhXP4DGuUl02wXCU1U03WSY1FYMe2Ostqs/s1600/WiperSwitch+016a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5HVjX8bAC_2b2xBYRGveCc_A53nPk6HxMG2622BrILp1xixpD4QwoXcHZu_Eb9qk7WFZNaslmQG1K7oOo54EC7TJOWWar3esE_DIKmea1dqhXP4DGuUl02wXCU1U03WSY1FYMe2Ostqs/s1600/WiperSwitch+016a.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cleaned switch</td></tr>
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I dipped the knob in water and took a toothbrush and brushed the grooves - after drying, the white stuff was still there. I took a wooden toothpick and ran it along the inside of the grooves - this removed the white gunk so I laboriously did this multiple times in EACH groove removing the white gunk and leaving the knob black and shiny. Sometimes elbow grease is the only answer ...<br />
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<b>Mind The Gap:</b><br />
I looked closely at how the connector was attached to the housing and saw 4 metal tabs on the housing that were pressed against the plastic edges of the connector. On the side with the 'gap' the 2 posts were loose from the plastic, allowing the connector to retreat from the housing. Taking a pair of wide mouth pliers I positioned the teeth of the pliers to just set on the metal posts, pressed the connector solidly against the housing and applied pressure - lots of pressure - to bend the little posts against the plastic. After a few times of doing this with both posts the connector stayed solidly seated against the housing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7P_8E6VeDsM5F4uATMNU5TTSLnM4sIpml5ULPENb3nCKGunyA4jRohw4EiEoZafvRSWrtDKelYNfgT8OThvsmA7lw8oFK8XcJkVjyJABPK_BEePRjZHmNu0MEp-DfmmJDkLGXWXn8ugM/s1600/Stockb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7P_8E6VeDsM5F4uATMNU5TTSLnM4sIpml5ULPENb3nCKGunyA4jRohw4EiEoZafvRSWrtDKelYNfgT8OThvsmA7lw8oFK8XcJkVjyJABPK_BEePRjZHmNu0MEp-DfmmJDkLGXWXn8ugM/s1600/Stockb.jpg" height="337" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Re-seating the retention tabs to 'Close the gap' </td></tr>
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<b>Re-Installation:</b><br />
Putting the switch back into the dash was straight forward now that I knew how the various pieces fit together. I connected the wiring harness to the switch, fed it back through the hole in the dash, put the bezul on (there is a little nub on the back to help with alignment of the bezel) and screwed the retaining nut back into place using my screwdriver for the last bit to ensure it was tight. The knob slipped right back on and clicked into place.<br />
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I fired up old blue not knowing if I had fixed anything and moved the wiper knob to the right 1-click. The windshield wipers started moving back and forth - EUREKA !!!<br />
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I moved the switch to the second position and watched as the wipers picked up a little speed and then turned the switch back to the left and watched as the wipers gently glided to their resting place on the windshield. I repeated just for fun with the same results and felt lucky the problem was probably that the 'gap' allowed space to come between the metal sliding connectors inside the switch keeping them from completing the circuit OR maybe some gunk in the switch that had been blown out when I shot it with contact cleaner.<br />
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<b>Information:</b><br />
Once again Bill from the Ford Enthusiasts website has something to say about these switches:<br />
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<b style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px;"><span style="color: navy;">C6TZ-17A553-B</span></b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px;"> .. Two Speed Wiper </span><b style="background-color: #efefef; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px; font-style: italic;"><i>and</i></b><span style="background-color: #efefef; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px; font-style: italic;"> Windshield Washer </span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px;">Switch-</span><b style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px;">7 </b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px;">terminals, includes w/shield washer switch / Marked: </span><b style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px;"><span style="color: darkred;">C6TB-17A553-B</span></b><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px;"> </span><span style="background-color: #efefef; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic;">(Motorcraft</span><span style="background-color: #efefef; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic;"> </span><b style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic;"><span style="color: red;">SW-736</span></b><span style="background-color: #efefef; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: italic;">)</span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px;">/ Obsolete</span><br />
<br style="background-color: white; font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.63636302947998px;" />
Applications: 1966 F100/350 from serial number 760,001 / 1966 F500/950 from serial number 802,001.<br />
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The serial number is the last 6 digits of the VIN, use this to verify the switch you need.<br />
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[This document shows how to remove the wiper switch from a Ford F250 Truck]<br />
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John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8010857836428628427.post-37341329369147641082014-04-05T11:36:00.000-07:002014-04-21T13:02:58.943-07:00Cleaning & Painting the Seat Hardware<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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While I had the seats out of Old Blue I separated the backrest from the seat, masked off the vinyl with newspaper and sanded, primed and repainted the metal bits that allow the seat back to swing forward to access behind the seat. The black paint had been chipped over the years so a little cleanup would look nice.. I also dipped the handle to the gas tank selector switch (Old Blue has 3 tanks) in the magic rust sauce and cleaned and repainted the selector indicator panel that sits on the floor next to the drivers seat.<br />
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Separating the backrest from the seat bench was a simple affair with the backrest support arm connecting to the seat bench pivot point by a little rolling pin that was secured by a cotter pin. Turning the seat upside down I gained easy access to the cotter pins (one on each side), pulled them, then pulled the little rolling pins out of the side of the seat bench giving access to the support arm on the seat back and metal bumper on the bench to sand, prime and paint. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KUCFeJ8NU74zWO2lZPUqhV-ODdZuTAnwYTXHCai1S6M_3MLoZ4vkAcxhhyphenhyphen1qcj7egc2jJrVP1mz2fmzRfmxjuBIwxU3kFODo-gDQk5YKwi1GC3vnIkUP9dxO2AE2rCjXRBJNlPKSC0I/s1600/Rust2+014a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2KUCFeJ8NU74zWO2lZPUqhV-ODdZuTAnwYTXHCai1S6M_3MLoZ4vkAcxhhyphenhyphen1qcj7egc2jJrVP1mz2fmzRfmxjuBIwxU3kFODo-gDQk5YKwi1GC3vnIkUP9dxO2AE2rCjXRBJNlPKSC0I/s1600/Rust2+014a.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Repainted Seat Hardware</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBcB64snP0iidoF8e4x0uG6X56O7Ku21-5uRT4LwYBTr5stIytYZ4j6ioeknvTL5-0A0s3tgRnHy7bGTae4I4N_YQz6balf3fS8_-DztnakgIicBGmLEKQAIPBgQIf4lOpNHp3BOx-GaM/s1600/Rust2+013a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBcB64snP0iidoF8e4x0uG6X56O7Ku21-5uRT4LwYBTr5stIytYZ4j6ioeknvTL5-0A0s3tgRnHy7bGTae4I4N_YQz6balf3fS8_-DztnakgIicBGmLEKQAIPBgQIf4lOpNHp3BOx-GaM/s1600/Rust2+013a.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Support arm and Tank Selector</td></tr>
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<b>TOOLS:</b><br />
Because I had already removed the seats this task was simple. It required a pair of pliers to remove the cotter pins and some paint. I used the same paint used for the radio grill and vents - Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Black and Dupli-Color High Fill Sandable Primer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrCCkYh9zjNpn46NlYKAXaL6OywI5e75E7_orAByl5gPJuHg4lNY86UY_rMVdyipIPxlIvhjPLUQpiUlEJa1jUAmakBBs26BGSij4__SS95BXxpJcA5nHA4_MjhjaW8VnNi4sZ6isSz2Q/s1600/Rust3+001a2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrCCkYh9zjNpn46NlYKAXaL6OywI5e75E7_orAByl5gPJuHg4lNY86UY_rMVdyipIPxlIvhjPLUQpiUlEJa1jUAmakBBs26BGSij4__SS95BXxpJcA5nHA4_MjhjaW8VnNi4sZ6isSz2Q/s1600/Rust3+001a2.jpg" height="320" width="303" /></a></div>
John Smithhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17308572330908108874noreply@blogger.com0