NOTES & Things to Consider

1. New Seat belt for middle passenger on bench ?  yep - share the bolts from the outer belts and drop another set into the middle.

2. Headliner - Not reproduced like the original but Dennis Carpenters work O.K.

3. How to tune this engine - see below

4. What are color codes for touchup paint and engine bay components - see below

5. How to check transmission fluid? - See Post

6. Master Brake Cylinder refresh - done, rebuilt

7. Door Adjustment on drivers side - still an issue, door alignment always seems a bit off and lines are not clean where door meets body.

Transmission Info:

From 1964 to 1966 the C4 was called the Dual-Range Cruise-O-Matic—known among enthusiasts as the Green Dot transmission. The C4 Dual-Range is equipped with a valve body that allows a driver to start out in second gear on snow and ice with a 2-3 upshift, which is the small dot (off detent next to neutral) on the indicator. The larger green dot at the detent next to “L” enables you to start out in first gear and go through a normal 1-2-3 upshift program.

Ford called its C4 the Cruise-O-Matic while Mercury called its C4 the Merc-O-Matic. It is important to note “Cruise-O-Matic” was a broad marketing name that applied to Ford automatic transmissions of the mid-1960s era. Beginning in 1967, Cruise-O-Matic was dropped and the name “Select-Shift” was used for all Ford automatics.

For one model year only—1964—the C4 had a five-bolt bellhousing for V-8s only. In August 1964, the C4 and the V-8s it was mated to were fitted with a larger six-bolt bellhousing to reduce noise, vibration, and harshness.
=========

The transmission is rear wheel drive 3 speed automatics. Common symptoms are: erratic shifting, slipping or losing trans fluid without a source of a leak.

You have a modulator on the rear of the transmission on the C4 / C5 and the C6 units. The modulator is on the passenger's side of the transmission on the C3. Pull the vacuum line off the mod. If fluid comes out of the vacuum line your modulator is not good.

Make sure your bands get adjusted when you service your trans. Make sure they do not lose your little spring and plunger that is under your filter on C4, C5 and C6 styles. This will cause unusually early and soft shifts.

Cruise-M-Matic

http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_gallery/TechnicalResourceLibrary/COM-Tranny-Operation-n-Fixes.htm

Tune-ups:

Points Gap: .014-.016 (26-28 degrees dwell) Plug gap .035 Auto-lite BF42 plugs (we have Autolite 142's which run cooler)


OR

According to my Chitons the specs are as follows for a '67 352:

Plug gap- .034"
Point dwell- 26-31 degrees
Point gap- .017"
Ignition timing- 6 degrees on a manual/automatic trans truck w/exhaust emissions
Int. valve opens @ 22 degrees
Fuel-pump pressure- 4.5-6.5
Idle speed- 625 RPM for manual trans truck w/ exhaust emissions
550 RPM for automatic trans truck w/ exhaust emissions
550 RPM for manual trans truck w/o exhaust emissions
475 RPM for automatic trans truck w/o exhaust emissions

Ok, stock timing is 6 BTDC. All Ford V8's could use and like a bit more initial timing. Probably safe to say that your distributor is most like set for 26 degrees mechanical advance from the factory. So you could go up to 12 BTDC for the initial.

Plug the vacuum gauge into manifold vacuum warm up the engine and have your idle speed at about 650 rpm. Now advance your distributor, which should start at 6 BTDC, and watch the vacuum gauge. As the timing advances the gauge will read higher and higher. At a certain point it will stop giving you a higher reading and then will decline when advanced too far. So find that point where it stops rising and then retard just a bit from there. Timing light will probably be around 10-12 degrees.

Check idle speed and make sure it is at 650 rpm. Now you can check the idle mixture screws. I start with the both screws 1 1/2 turns out already. I know it will be on the lean side so all I need to do is open them more. As I open the vacuum gauge will read a higher vacuum just like timing did. Once again you will hit a point where it goes no higher. Mine hits that point at 2 1/2 turns out. With that optimized I check idle speed again as a higher vacuum also means a higher idle speed so I set for 650 one last time.

Mallory Comp 9000 P/N's

Engine Tuning Notes:
You can actually tune your mixture, idle speed, and ignition timing with a vacuum gauge.

Taken from a post by Lakerat in the Inline Six Performance Forum:
Tuning with a vac gauge

Many racers and engine tuners have opted for state-of-the-art diagnostic equipment but have forgotten one of the simplest, as well as one of the most accurate tuning tools...... the vacuum gauge.

When using any vacuum gauge keep in mind that they are all calibrated at sea level and read-outs in the instructions are in reference to that level. Whenabove sea level all readings will drop one division per each 1,000 feet of altitude above sea level. Thus a reading of 20 inches of vacuum at sea level would drop to 19 inches at 1,000 feet, 18 inches at 2,000 feet, etc. All readings are taken at idle except as noted. If your engine is barely able to sustain 2"Hg vacuum at idle, it will be hard to tune using this method, but it is still useful. In most cases if you use a quality large faced Vacuum gauge, with some experience you can effectively tune your car's fuel and timing systems. Tuning with the engine running compensates for wear in the timing gear and valve train, and therefore providing better results than with the manufacturers recommended settings.

Note: All adjustments are made with the transmission in PARK or NEUTRAL, with the exception of Idle Speed, which is set in DRIVE.

Vacuum Gage ConnectionConnect the gauge to a "manifold" vacuum source, NOT "ported" vacuum, that rises as RPM increases. In most cases this will be a direct manifold source or possibly the PCV port (larger port) on the carb.

Start by first warming the engine and note the idle vacuum reading. Normal vacuum at idle should be 19-21 inches for a six cylinder, or 15-18 inches on a low compression engine. Pre-set the ignition timing so that it is close to the manufactures recommended setting, before making any carb adjustments.

Carb Adjustments To adjust the carb, start by leaning out one of the mixture screws (turn in) until the gauge as well as the engine begins to shudder. Next bring the screw back towards rich (turn out), while watching the gauge.Stop adjusting when the gauge reaches it's highest reading. Then do the same process for the other mixture screw. After each adjustment is made, reset your idle speed.

Small adjustments are best, and in fact "optimum" carb settings on the vacuum gauge (highest reading) is usually richer than it needs to be. In other words, once the highest reading is reached, back-off (or lean) the adjustment approximately 1/4 turn in. You may have to repeat the process a few times to get optimum results, but it's worth the time and effort.

Note: With a properly jetted carburetor, turning either of the mixture screws all the way lean, should kill the engine. If not, you're too rich! This may require re-jetting, or drilling the primary butterflies to add more idle air. Many of the newer "race" carbs allow you to change Idle air bleeds to fix this.

For carbs with 4-corner mixture screws, you have to take a bit more time. You can also run the engine at a "steady-state" RPM of say, 2500 RPM to double-check your secondary mixture screw settings. Do this with temperament! It takes time to get used to what you are seeing as well as if it is actually helping. Each engine will behave differently.

Remember to rev the engine to clear the spark plugs before taking your final reading and readjust if necessary. When you blip the throttle, the needle should drop to as low as 2, pop back up to as high as 26, and quickly level off in the normal zone.

Ignition Timing

After the carb mixture is set, you can proceed with the ignition timing. Slacken the distributor clamp bolt, and with the engine still at idle, advance or retard the ignition until the highest steady vacuum reading is obtained. Then retard the timing until the vacuum gauge reading drops slightly, approximately one half to one inch. In some cases, you may need to retard the timing up to two inches to prevent pre-ignition (pinging).

Note: If you can't get the reading into the "normal" zone by adjusting the distributor then valve timing is the problem. Timing with a vacuum gauge will normally result in timing that is more advanced than what specifications call for, so you need to be alert for any pre-ignition (pinging) in the engine and adjust accordingly (retard the timing if needed).

Your engine should now be tuned to perfection.

----
How to use a vacuum Gauge : http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

-----

If it has a Smog pump it is probably no older than 72 (I believe that is when the state of California began requiring them). I personally threw the points setup away the Mallory Unilite is far supperior, more acurate and not as worn. If he goes to the Unilite tell him to get the fully mechanical distributor it's one less place for vacuum that doesn't work. Use the hot plug (if the engine is the stock veriety) and run 6 to 8 BTDC. Put a vacuum gauge on it on the manifold tree (probably located on the rear passenger side) then carfully screw the (driver first) mixture screw in until the engine begins to miss then screw it out (watching the vacuum gauge) until the needal is at it's smothest point then repeat this on the other side. When the mixture is right the vacuum should read a very steady 13 to 14 inches; if not, adjust the rest out by slowly advancing the distributor. it is less important to get 13 to 14 inches than it is the see the needle rock solid. Also note if you exceed 10 advance (BTDC) you m

ust increase the richness of the mixture put the light on it(important) do not adjust by ear you are not use to this particular engine.

------

From Mallory Installation:
Advance Curve:
All COMP 9000® Series UNILITE® Distributors have 24° (crankshaft degrees) of mechanical advance at 3,200 RPM.

There are two little set screws in the outside dist body. You will have to pull out the dist to get to them and remove the advance plate. Under this is the weights,springs, and advance limiter. For a chevy you will have to bend the little tang to the right to limit the total adv. To the left for more adv. I bought mine new and didnt have any little "key". I just used needle nosed pliers, worked great. Then line up the adv plate and screw in the little screws and you are done
.--------------------

http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/thread/1055799805/1055802855/comp+9000+distributor+%2Cdon%27t+see+any+mech+adjustment

If the distributor was made more than about 7 years ago it probably has the older YT advance mechanism which isn't really adjustable.

Is the part number tag still on the distributor? If so, look at the part number; If it doesn't end in an "H" then it has a YT advance.

The YT advance was designed to produce about 12 degrees (24 crank) of advance. You can adjust it about 2 degrees (4 degrees crank) by bending the stop tab so that it contacts the plate earlier or later. But be careful; if you bend the tab back and forth too many times or too much the tab may break off. (that's why we went to the newer adjustable YH advance).
If you want, you can send the distributor into Mallory and for around $50 they can convert the advance to the adjustable YH.

Timing Calculations

Initial time is just a number that gets you close to your total mechanical advance number. Total mechanical advance should be 36° to 38° at 3500 rpm (for your average truck that actually works once in a while). To find total max mechanical advance, you disconnect the vacuum advance and plug it (that's what all the instructions tell you but I know for a fact it don't change a thing). Now start and run the engine with a timing light connected (one with the retard feature works best), also connect a tach. Now run the rpm up until the timing quits advancing, note the rpm and then retard the timing light **** until you are at 0°. Read the dial an that tells you what your total advance is.

If your are reading 32° at 4000 rpm and your intital is set at 12°, you can advance the initial another 2° to 6° to acheive the desired maximum mechanical advance. I usually stay away from 38° on my street trucks and keep things around 34° to 36° to be on the safe side.

Oh and don't be surprised if the total advance isn't in until 4000 rpm of higher. Stock dist. roll timing in very slowly. I always do a recurve on even my after market dist., which I generally have found to be a wasteful use of my money, when a recurve kit is around $10 for the stock dist.

----------------------

Relevant LINKS

Tuning with a vacuum gauge
http://www.centuryperformance.com/forum/showthread.php/42-Engine-Tuning-Using-a-Vacuum-Gauge


----------------

Idle Adjustment
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88726

--------------------
Timing Overview
http://www.setyourtiming.com/Timing_Settings.html

----------------------------

Valve Covers:

1965/66 F100/350 352: As original with PCV:

Right valve cover: Rubber grommet twists into hole, smog valve fits into grommet, hose routes from valve to nipple on carb spacer plate.

Left valve cover: Oil cap has a nipple made as part of it, hose routes from nipple to elbow on air cleaner.

Cap was available in chrome (with/without the engine "dress-up" kit) or painted black.
__________________

Bill // Retired Ford Parts Manager // SoCal Chapter member // Part Number Research: 1928/2001 Trucks ~ 1928/89 Passenger Cars.


-------------------------------------------

COLORS

Ditzler paint code for the valve covers and air cleaner is 22362 (BLUE block/Blue valve covers for 1966 352 )


FORD LIGHT ARGENT
Detail Silver - Eastwood
Ditzler 2593 (Argent Silver)
" DAR-2593 (acrylic enamel)
" DDL-2593 (acrylic lacquer)
Ford Silver - DAR-2593 (Ditzler Argent Silver)
Ford Silver - PPG - DCC2593 polyurethane (PPG Argent Silver)
Ford 1G - "Silver Poly" (1975-1976)
Ford 1G - "Silver Metallic" (1977-1980)
Hammered Silver - Ditzler DAR 2593
Hammered Silver - Dupli-Color® FM-149
High Performance Wheel Coating - Dupli-Color® - WP101 (silver) (Tried this, it is TOO bright)
High Performance Wheel Coating - Dupli-Color® - WP103 (clear overcoat)
Jewel Silver - Subaru code 9985
Metallichrome Aluminium - ICI no: P0-2358 (original paint, see note below)
Moss Silver wheel paint - 220-560 (Moss Motors Ltd)
Silver - Ditzler Delstar® - Code #16
Wheel Paint - VHT - SP188 polyurethane (Argent Silver) (This is the one to use)

NPD# T-19000-1 Argent aerosol, '65 thru '73
Motorcraft Argent Spray Paint Part# PM-19K207-AA

FORD MARLIN BLUE
Short Ford Code 'W'

The longer Ford paint manufacturing code is M1742 or M1742A. Ford production paint codes starting with M are usually followed by a 4 digit number and the letter "A" indicating its an exterior paint. The same code ending in the letter "G" is common for interior paints.

Ditzler PPG 12902

The original paint was DuPont acrylic enamel. - Bill at FTE

Instrument Cluster Refresh
1. Silver Face paint = ??? "if you spray the cluster like I did, spray it lightly or the engine turning on the face of the cluster will dissapear. That is one good thing about using the chrome paint as opposed to a silver paint. Once it dries, you actually buff it with a rag to make it shine and it removes any excess paint" - FitchBanjo,  FE site
2. Gauge Needles = Krylon florescent paint
3. Clear Lens Buffer = Mequires plastic polish with a foam buffing wheel


Replacing Drivers Side Window
[from Ford Enthusiasts.com]
Its not an easy repair firstoff...time and tedius when fasteners dont cooperate. If this is a nice truck or one you are restoring there will be some parts I recomend buying before as they typically are ruined when dealing with vent frame replacement. 
The window sweepers in and out need to be removed and have several clips that are integral with them which are a bugger to get out to say the least. These can be acquired at Dennis carpenter along with the other weatherstripping parts you choose to buy. With the sweepers and clips removed you will need to undo the division bar from the door...there are 2 phillips screws at the top of the door easily seen/accessed by standing on the door sill and looking down at it. 
Remove the door access panel or door pouch depending on what your door has to gain access to the inner parts. there are 2 nut and bolts that attach the lower part of the division bar to the door...these are right above the area where the door access plate goes and can be seen when looking up into the door inners. There is also one Phillips screw that is seen on the door on the inside which is slightly forward of where the division bar is and 2-3 inches below the door top edge where the windows are. be careful not to bugger this screw up as they arent typical phillips screws and are easily buggered up. If needed I have these screws. the door glass should be removed from the regulator by removing the spring clip that holds the plastic roller to the regulator...once thats removed roll the window down and push/pull the regulator from the glass and lower it to the door bottom and situate out of the way. The glass run which runs across the top and down the rear will need to be at least partially removed as the upper division bar bracket is covered by this. There are 2 phillips screws on the angled part of the door frame in front of the vent window area...seen when the doors opened and easily seen. with these screws all removed note or take a picture of how the vent weatherstrip fits on the door inside and out...The assembly will slide straight back and you will see 2 phillips screws holding a bracket that thevent frame upper pivot attaches to the main vent frame that the weatherstrip goes into. 
From inside the door you will feel the bottom pivot nut and spring and shims/spacers/anti squeak area...the lower pivot is splined as there are a couple of splined washers/stop that go onto the shaft in a certain order. 
If the donor door is a junk door I would recomend removing seperating the division bar from the vent frame weatherstrip channel/vent assembly...there is a small phillips screw accessed by a small hole slightly forward of the division bar. the hole is in the weatherstrip and given its most likely hard as a rock will fall apart to a degree...once the screw is removed the division bar can be slid back leaving the entire vent frame mounting assembly ready for removal from the donor door...once its out you will see the setup on the lower pivot with the spring and such. 
You should be able to remove your broken frame from your door by reremoving the 2 phillips screws from the vent frame weatherstrip retainer and the window and frame will be free...if you have enough to grab onto with vise grips without seperating your division bar from that weatherstrip channel thats a plus...otherwise you will need to get a new vent weatherstrip from Dennis carpenter..they have the best reproduction weatherstripping by a long shot. If you have to get new weatherstripping pull out the old...usually a chiseling act until you can grab enough to pull it out of the channel. remove your old stub of the lower pivot and reverse the disassembly procets...its not a quick and easy job...do it inside if possible and plan on spending the day doing it. 
Make sure you have good screwdrivers that fit into the screws fully and get a full bite...the one screw that ties the middle of the division bar to the door...like the other door screws you see are the hardest to remove usually as they arent a typical Phillips screw you see in a hardware store. If theres paint in them remove the paint before trying to remove it.


I hope this helps

- cs65

Attaching Glass to hardware: 

Vent glass retained to frame with "glass tape" available from any autoglass shop. So you don't have to buy it from a repop seller and then pay shipping charges.

Every FoMoCo vent glass, regardless of the year, used glass tape in this location. Glass tape also used to bond door glass to door glass channel that the window regulator attaches to.

__________________
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.


See page 130 of Dennis Carpenters catalog for install instructions of Anti-Rattlers