Saturday, January 26, 2019

Exhaust Leak



We had been told there was an exhaust leak on the drivers side when we lived at Casa but had no idea what this meant. Yesterday, while checking the timing, Will saw flames between the exhaust pipe and the headers when we rev'd the engine. With a can of WD40 and a pneumatic wrench he tightened up the rusted header bolts and suddenly we knew what an exhaust leak sounded like, and what a glass-pak'ed 352 FE sounds like -

This is AFTER ..... 


The drum brakes on this survivor tend to grab ;)

Sunday, September 2, 2018

F* the Stuck Bolt or Thank god there are still guys who do this

"Anytime you want to pull a bolt, you gotta hit it 3 times with a hammer and let her know this is the bolt you want." This guiding encouragement given to me by Uncle Ken when chatting about the 1966 F250 seems so simple now. For the last 5 years whenever I needed a bolt I tap, tap, tap and out it comes. Water pump, seat frame, back bumper slider all gave it up but the last few months we have been fighting with the alternator and that long 4" bottom bolt into the engine block.

We tried dousing with WD40 and let sit for a day (you know this stuff was invented to protect missiles and the name stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try)

Ritual tap tap tap and ... nothing 

Used our tire iron substitute break stick ... stripped head of bolt

(used stripped head puller socket for remaining efforts)

Bought impact wrench rated at 700 ft/lbs and ... nothing 

Talk with hardcore mechanic about it ... he was amused. 

We got an appointment for next Friday ...

                                                                   Car Shop


Saturday, February 4, 2017

Tune Up Time

It has been a few thousand miles and I have noticed that Ole Blue has been coughing a little when I accelerate out of turns on the country roads heading to the beach. I think I need to take another look at the carburetor. So, this morning 'Choke Boy' and I took a drive down the highway a couple of miles and then, with a warm engine, went to work by hooking up the vacuum gauge and timing light.

My plan was to:
  1. Note the idle vacuum reading. Normal vacuum at idle should be 19-21 inches for a six cylinder, or 15-18 inches on a low compression engine. 
  2. Check the ignition timing, before making any carb adjustments.
  3. Lean out the mixture screws (turn in).  
  4. After each adjustment is made, reset the idle speed.
I had also picked up a tachometer / dwell meter at goodwill for $1 and I hooked it up as well. The tachometer was reading 800 rpm, the vacuum was at 19 inches and the timing was a bit advanced of my white mark from last year, so I released the lock down bolt and reset the timing to 10 degrees BTDC.

I checked the idle mixture screws. Turning each screw about 1/2 turn in, I was thinking I needed to lean out the carb a little to reduce the coughing. The vacuum was still reading 19 inches so I turned it 1/4 turn more and rechecked the idle speed, setting it at 700.

I cranked down on the distributor hold down bolt, disconnected the meters and took her for a test drive, Choke Boy riding shotgun. She pulled away smooth from full stops and as we headed out of town on the little two lane road west we easily cruised at 55 out to the turns in the road as it meanders through the low hills. Entering the first turn I let up on the accelerator and when I pushed down to accelerate out of the turn Old Blue jumped without any hesitation, pulling us through the corner, accelerating into the straights. Yeah, Baby let's drive this a while and see how it feels!


Saturday, February 28, 2015

Installing the Anti-Rattlers and Windows

INSTALLATION
1. Form the door glass run to the window glass, recommend holding down the door glass run on top of glass by one person, while the other person molds the door glass run over the curvature of the glass.

NOTE: Much has been written about the metal edges kinking and bending when the curve is put into the window run.
If ends don't slide out, the bend will kink!
After looking carefully at the original run and watching as I bent the new run over the window curve I noticed the two metal edges of the run need to slip out through the top end of the run as the curve is formed. Watch the end of the run carefully as the bend is being made and help the ends move out if they get hung up. This will ensure a smooth bend in the run and will create the little metal ends poking out the top of the run that is often found on the original window run from 1966,

2.Slip in the division Bar: Install it at about a 45-degree angle; turned 180 degrees opposite the way it mounts. We slipped the shipping plastic back over the top to minimize scratching the new paint. we loosely connected the top screws and left it hanging. .

3. Door Glass: With the door glass run bent; install the door glass through the door access panel and lean against inside of door.

4. Regulator Mechanism: we attached it loosely with the four screws around the window crank stud.

5. Vent Window: At this point the door glass, regulator & division bar are inside the door panel; with the door glass and division bar laying down in the bottom of the door panel. Insert a nylon rope / string under the outside of the rubber vent window seal; leaving a large portion expose at both ends to grasp when pulling the rubber seal lip over the door frame.

We installed the vent window using two screws along the A post and tighten them about 3/4 of the way. (Ensure the nylon cord is on the outside of the door frame prior to this point). Go ahead and slowly pull the cord to over lap the rubber seal against the outside door frame.

6. Division Bar: Slide division bar into place; making sure the bottom attachment plate is over the top of the regulator mechanism and bolt to the inside two bolts securing the bar to the regulator. Also screw the top two screws (through the door frame) loosely into place. Ensure the vent window screw; that's inserted through the horizontal portion of the vent rubber near the vent window handle is screwed into the division bar at this time.

7. Door Glass Run: With the now formed window run, install run through the top of door, guide door run along the inside channel guide along the door handle side. Reach up through the access panel to guide the dove tail clip into the groove at the top of the metal channel that the door glass run slides into. This channel bar is vertical along the door handle side, bolted through the door panel near the door locking mechanism.

* Use a 3/8" thick wood stick to snap run into alignment holes; don't put pressure into curvature portion only along the top three snap holes and two side snap holes of the trim portions.

8. Door Glass: Lift door glass from bottom of door panel along division bar & door glass run trim. Once align with regulator arm attach with cam roller & clip, (I use new plastic cam roller but found that my original (E clip or Jesus clip) attach cam roller better than my new made in Taiwan clip).
Crank glass up about 1/3rd of the way out; have a person hold squarely the glass for proper alignment while another person tightens division bar bolts and screws; we also tighten the vent window screws securely at this time.

9. Anti-Rattlers: Anti- rattlers are the last item to install and can be snapped into place with your finger and with the thinner portion of the wood shim we use. There are real thin metal pieces on the ends of the Anti-rattlers; we place the ends along the outside of the division bar and door glass run.

After this step just reattach your door trim, armrest, handles and access panel. The DC illustration really helped and we recommend due to having pictures for each step; the main difference between them and us was when we installed the vent window. The write-up by Mitch 'Customcab' on the Ford Truck Enthusiast site (http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/447502-installation-of-door-windows-parts.html) was also very helpful.

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Replacing the Vent Window Seal

Vent Window
Old rubber after removing divider bar screw
After pulling apart the door components in preparation to replace the window runners, anti-rattlers and division bar we found that the rubber on the vent windows was rock hard and the rubber seal around the vent window fell apart as we removed the screw that holds the vent frame to the division bar. We had ordered replacement rubber from Dennis Carpenters and I would recommend ordering the vent rubber when
ordering the anti-rattlers so you do not have to wait around for the rubber vent seals to ship separately.

With the vent window removed from the door frame we cleaned the vent window frame and oiled/greased the moving parts. To do this work you MUST remove the vent window and frame from the door.


Pulling Apart the Vent Window

Vent Frame with pivot bolt
Vent Window hinge 
The vent window and frame come out of the door connected to each other by a hinge on the outside of the door about 3/4 of the way up, and a spring loaded pivot bolt located about midway across the bottom of the vent window.

To remove the rubber, we will have to remove the hinge by removing 2 screws holding it into the vent frame and then remove the holding nut, spring and related washers from the pivot bolt allowing the vent window to release from the vent frame. Note the position and order of the washers on the pivot post since these are ribbed and should be put back in the same position they are removed to ensure the vent window only opens half way. We ended up using lots of WD-40 and letting the post sit overnight in order to get the washers off the ribbed pivot post.
Remember the order and position of the pivot post washers
After pulling the old rubber out of the vent window frame we lined up the new rubber. There are some indentations about 3 inches from the top that need to align to similar openings in the frame as well as holes for the pivot post and divider bar at the bottom. When we lined up the rubber and the frame we still had some rubber pushing out of the top and bottom end of the frame, leave this be, when the frame is put back into the door this part of the rubber ensures a tight fit with the window divider.

Vent Frame and New Rubber
New rubber was soft and very pliable
The seals were made of soft rubber and we found out pretty quickly that it snapped into place by inserting the side with the big overhang (frame that will be outside door) all along the frame first and then, holding the frame with your hands, pushing the other side until it snapped into place working your way top to bottom.

Once again, make sure the holes for the divider bar screw and the pivot post line up with the holes in the vent frame.
Step 1 - line up and insert side of rubber with wide lip 
Step 2 - align grooves, push in rubber
Step 3 - apply pressure to other side of rubber to snap in place
Step 4 - work your way down to the bottom of frame
Step 5 - ensure holes on bottom line up

Monday, February 16, 2015

Preparing the Division Bars and Vent Window Hinges

We painted the division bar semi-gloss black leaving the bottom 1.5" chrome to match the original bars and painted the hinge on the right vent window chrome silver to match the chrome on the hinge of the drivers side vent window. Usual paint and process gave us an easy refresh to the two parts.
Old and New Divider Bars

Sunday, February 15, 2015

Replacement Division Bars Need Tweaking

The window division bars we received from Dennis Carpenter are pretty good replica's of the originals with a few minor exceptions. First we noticed the top portion of the bar that is visible both inside and outside is all stainless steel rather than the semi-gloss back of the original.

Division Bars

Vent frame connector nuts and housings
Second, the nut for receiving the screw attaching the bottom bar of the vent window to the division bar is the wrong size.

Some people wrote on the FTE web site that the 2 screws holding the vent frame to the door frame are the same size just a different length but upon inspection we find this is not true. The screw holding the vent frame to the division bar is a different size, head type, and is pointed on the end.




Vent frame screws and nuts

Painting the division bars: 
After masking off the areas we want to paint, we shot two coats of semi-gloss. We let dry for a few days to make sure the paint had dried. We shot both sides of the bar but taped off the bottom 1.5" of the inside chrome to maintain the original look.

Replacing the vent nut in the division bar: 
With a small flat head screw driver, We carefully bent the housing retaining the square vent window nut and replaced it with the original nut, carefully bending the retention housing back into place.