Things To Do

1. Fix Tachometer
2. Clean Interior
3. Fix leaky fuel pump intake
4. Add seatbelt
5. Fix Alternator Light
6. Research
  • Carburators (What will it take to replace with rebuilt?)
  • Wheels (what were original options, hubcaps?)
  • Campers (Age Appropriate Shells/Slide On's) 
  • Why do spark plugs have oil on them? 
7. Transmission
  • What are options on drive selector? 
  • What is a Cruise-O-Matic? 
  • Why does it slip out of Park? 
8. Brakes
  • Drum size
  • Replacement parts
9. New Radio Antenna
  • FOUND! Dennis Carpenter has the shaft and I reused the old oval base, adding a hand cut piece of rubber from an old inner tube from the kids bikes as a washer between the base and the fender. 
10. Tune Ups
  • What are timing specs? Lots of info around for 352 most say 6-8 BTDC with push to 10  as needed for max vacuum
  • What size plugs?  Gap?   Plug gap .035 Auto-lite BF42 plugs - verify 
  • Tools needed? 
    • Vacuum Gauge
    • Timing Light
11. ALTERNATOR (Rebuild or Replace)
  • What is output? 12.4v
  • Mount bolt stripped

12. Regulator - why does it stick?

13. Windshield Wipers stopped working

14. Radio stopped working - replaced jumped inline fuse with new

15. Replace broken Valve Cover bolt
  • Paint covers?? Yes, they were originally BLUE on the 1966 352's
  • Torque Wrench
16. Electrical
  • Wiring Wrap
  • Heater and Wipers - why dont they work 
  • Replace bulb on rear license plate illuminator 
17. Engine hesitation pulling from idle: The accelerator pump diaphragm (think that is the type on the stock 2V) could be damaged or the actuating linkage rod needs adjustment. A vacuum leak is also possible. Bill says 'Bogging down, hesitating, stumbling from a dead stop or when accelerating at speed. The usual cause: Defective 2100 series 2V Auto-Lite/Motorcraft accelerator pump and check valve'

18. Refresh Cab components done

19. Replace window Anti-Rattlers done

20. Rebuild Master Brake Cylinder-done

21. 

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